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From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: LR clutch judder
Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 13:04:46 +0100 (BST)

Frederick
Clutch judder when setting off in 1st gear (or reverse) can sometimes be
caused by small quantities of oil on the clutch friction plates which
get converted by heat into a tarry residue. The clutch alternately slips
and grips, causing the judder, which can be quite alarming. My old 3/4
ton developed this problem when hot some years ago; it sounded and felt
as though the gearbox was trying to jump out of the vehicle! New clutch
plates solved the problem.
Cheers!
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Heaters
Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 13:37:42 +0100 (BST)

The recent talk about heaters reminds me of the time the Smiths round
fug-stirrer packed up in my old IIa 1/4 ton. Given the cost of replacing
the matrix, my brother and I experimented with various items of clothing
to combat the cold. First attempt was a tail-gunner's suit from a
Lancaster. This even had heating elements built in, but we never got
those to work. Also, being made from some thick jute material, the suit
was so bulky it was almost impossible to bend your arms whilst wearing
it, let alone climb into the LR cab.
The next idea was to use ex German WD sleeping bags, which have built in
arms and a hood, and also a zip at the foot so you can poke your boots
out. This system worked very well, although I got some funny looks when
filling up at night in motorway service stations.
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 14:20:25 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Unleaded head

Tony, I don't know what your sources were, but what you have said about 
unleaded fuel does not jive with what I've read about the stuff (or 
learned from my grandfather who worked as an engineer for Exxon's Houston 
refinery for 30 years).  The converter makes a huge difference, yes, and 
80% of emissions from a converted car are in the first 2-3 minutes 
running.  Nevertheless, benzene and other aromatic hydrocarbons are 
byproducts of any sort of combustion (even your barby'), albeit depending 
a lot on the tune of the engine.  The lead is _not_ inert after burning. 
It falls to the earth in soot/unburned HC's and gets right back into the 
environment. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a greenie, and after all, the lead 
was in the environment at some point anyway, it wasn't made from scratch. 
But it does end up on the surface, in water, in soil, etc. Heavy metals 
are bad for us, however we get 'em.

Now I know we have some good chemists/refining types who've quoted on 
here before, please correct/improve my comments!

Finally, on a SLIGHTLY different tack, read an article in Science (19 May
1995, last week, p.991-995) It's a VERY good analysis of 'no-emissions'
policies, low emissions, unleaded vs. leaded vs. batteries, etc.  Well
written.  It has lots of further references which might help our data on 
unleaded fuel emissions.  The article itself should be of interest to 
any runners of older cars who like to argue that _we_ aren't the 
'enviro-scum' we're made out to be. Look it up.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 May 1994 11:35:08 -0500
From: kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Loose steering

Fellow Rover fans:

I recently purchased the Owners's Workshop Manual for my 1989 RR (you
know... In case of breakdown)  Well, now I'm in the process of
disassembling the truck in an attempt to fix all those "little things" that
were bothering me.  No one can help me with the wiring problem I'm having,
but I was wondering if anyone could help with the steering.  The truck runs
straight, but when turning the wheel, it feels loose for the 1st 45
degrees, thereafter it feels like the steering is engaging.  This happens
in both directions.  The manual suggests renewing some ball joint thing,
but you have to press out some stuff from inside.  The last time I
encountered pressing was when I changed all the bushings, and it couldn't
be done.  Had to send the parts out to a shop that could do it and do
without my truck for a couple of days.  Is this steering fix going to be
the same hassle?  Anyother possibilties which may be easier to fix?

Help is appreciated.
kgb

P.S. Not enough RR posts on this mail list!  Just because it's a nice car
doesn't mean that everyone who owns it is a YUPpie.

P.P.S. As for the wiring, the MAZDA dealer I bought it from really f*ked
that up.  All the important features work, but I might as well have a
Defender with the long list of options which don't work.

------------------------------

From: Sekerere@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 16:17:09 -0400
Subject: Unleaded Gas

Arizona is going to banned all leaded gas by the end of this year, so that
means my 66 Series IIA will have to drink unleaded. What must I do to convert
the engine to unleaded, and any guesstimates as to the cost of whatever I
have to do? Your advice will be most appreciated if possible before the end
of day tomorrow as I must make my aol account inactive during my Africa
vacation.

Thanks

Chris Whitehead

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 19:19:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson)
Subject: Brush bar/winch combo

I looked into this ridiculously overpriced unit a while back; I called Warn
and they said that to get it I had to go through a Rover dealer; they
wouldn't sell it themselves.  Anyway, I had them fax me the installation
instructions which has full coverage of what the thing looks like and how it
installs.

If you're interested, zap me your fax number and I'll fax it to you (hope
the quality will be OK).

Regards, 

Henry B. Wilson
(wilsonhb@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu)
NEW WWW home page (with Disco pics)
http://vumclib.mc.vanderbilt.edu/~wilsonhb

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 95 17:48:56 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Sick 88 Range Rover

All, 

Looks like my Range Rover has blown it's head gasket. Leaking wter through the 
overflow, radiotr light flashing on, losing coolant, no leaks !!! and finally 
the green anti-freeze has turned white. 

Anyone confirm that the gasket has gone from this ? 

Mark  

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 01:40:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Sick 88 Range Rover

Mark..

Yup.. sounds like a blown head gasket.. At least the anti-freeze turning
white sound like oil in the coolant. Are you getting any coolant into the
oil sump too??

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 01:40:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Unleaded Gas

Chris Whitehead (and others) discuss unleaded stuff...

> Arizona is going to banned all leaded gas by the end of this year, so that
> means my 66 Series IIA will have to drink unleaded. What must I do to
> convert the engine to unleaded, and any guesstimates as to the cost of
> whatever I have to do?

Well... you don't really *have* to do anything to get the truck to run on
unleaded.. Just fill 'er up and off you go. It is very difficult to find
leaded fuel here in New York State. Some places have it, but I believe it is
just unleaded fuel that has been treated in some way. 

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I think that the lead - besides
boosting the octane - provides for some protection to the valves. Without
the lead, the valves slowly recede into the valve seats. Probably not a big
problem unless you run it every day. The solution is to install hardened
valves and seats - which means pulling the head off and rebuilding it. Cost
depends on what you replace (valves, guides & seats from Rovers North are
around $250!!) You could also get a reconditioned head and save yourself a
lot of work.

Should you do it?? That's up to you. I've been running a '64 Triumph
Spitfire without the hardened valves for more than 10 years on unleaded fuel
with no ill effects. It hasn't seemed to bother the Rover, either.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 15:44:19 EST
From: tonyy@ntalpha.nt.bom.gov.au (Tony Yates)
Subject: Unleaded and valves

.   >
.   >Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I think that the lead - besides
.   >boosting the octane - provides for some protection to the valves. Without
.   >the lead, the valves slowly recede into the valve seats. Probably not a big
.   >problem unless you run it every day. The solution is to install hardened
.   >valves and seats - which means pulling the head off and rebuilding it.

I run a V8 110 on LPG which is a dry fuel, resulting in excessive valve
wear similar to unleaded.  The solution I use is to have a Flashlube upper
cylinder head lubrication system installed which injects lubricant into
the inlet manifold using the manifold vacuum . This is pretty cheap to 
install and run. I think Moreys have a similar system.

=====================================================================
Tony Yates                                                 ()
                                                        ()(  )          
Darwin RFC               ph:  (089) 824 724            (       )
Bureau of Meteorology    fax: (089) 824 729             ~~~~~~~
PO Box 735                                              /////
Darwin NT 0801           email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au      ///
Australia                                              //
=====================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 02:30:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: Lori Bravo <lbravo@lot49.Tristero.Com>
Subject: Hard Top, Defender 90 help

Greetings!

I'm a recent Land Rover owner (3 weeks and it's GREAT!) and I'm looking
for someone who sells hardtops...

I'm not really fond of the authorized fiberglass top for the DEFENDER 90.

Could someone please help?

I've got the full safari cage and a soft top on my red Defender.

Thanks,

Lori Bravo
lbravo@tristero.com
"Hey Lady, is your Jeep on Steroids?"

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