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From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Fuse
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 16:38:24 +0930 (CST)

Kelly writes:

Are you sure it's not "17AG"  this is a fuse "size" as opposed to capacity
I forget the dimensions but  its the most common glass fuse

> then in big letters '35 A'.  So which is it? 

I seem to remember that all fuses in the early landys were 35A

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 00:21:19 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Locks and tumblers

>  There are some sophisticated battery cut-off devices available as well.

I read about one that I really liked.  It was put out by a company whose 
main business was high performance spark plug wires.  (I forget the name.) 
 Anyway, it included a switch mounted in a hidden location, which, if you 
didn't push it (spring loaded toggle) within a couple of minutes of 
starting the car, it would shut everything down leaving the would-be thief 
stranded not too far away, as Michael said.  

What I'd really like is a device that stops the engine if it can't get a 
signal from a remote device.  I have a doohickey that you put one part in 
your briefcase (or clip it to your kid) and one part on your keychain, and 
if they get more than 15 or 20 feet apart, your part starts beeping.  I'd 
like the same thing for hte Rover, only if they get too far apart, the one 
in the vehicle shuts everything down.  That way, if you get hi-jacked, the 
vehicle stops when it goes a certain distance from you.  Also, it won't 
start if you're not around.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Foreign Aid.
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 09:07:40 UNDEFINED

/Thought you all would like to hear that L/R's are not all play. Saw a very
/depressing picture (AP Photo) in the LA Times yesterday of a "110" (I think)
/bringing aid to the Hutu refugees in a camp in Rwanda. Better to have the best
/of vehicles to provide humanitarian aid to the needy.

I got a little cynical about this stuff a few years back. Bob Geldof set op 
Band Aid to raise lots of money very successsfully to help somehwre else in 
Africa (there's ALWAYS somewqhere in Africa).

They had TV pictures (along with all the moralistic crap about what heros teh 
Band Aid folk were) showing tehm unloading the Landrovers they had bought "to 
transport supplies". Were they High-Capacity-Pickups? Wree they hell. They 
were County Station Wagons!!!!!!!

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 14:25:53 +0200
From: Andre.Budeng@hdata.no ( =?iso-8859-1?Q?Andr=E9?= Budeng)
Subject: Electric vacuum pump 109"

Is there someone that have tried to put a electric vacuum pump to increase
the pressure to the brakes on a 109" diesel ?

                        Office Line  Mac & Carry A.S

                                Andr=E9 Budeng
                                 PB 9804 ILA
                                  0132 Oslo
                                   NORWAY

                             Land Rover 109" -78

                              

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 26 Apr 95  8:17:18 EDT
Subject: Hi! Diesel answers. please...

Greetings to the aluminum assemblage...

I've just purchased my dream car - a '64 Land Rover 109 pickup. 

His Diesel is none too happy, smoking profusely in operation. If there's
anyone in the fgroup who might be able to lead a novice Diesel LR
owner through the stupid-questions phase, please contact me at
alan_richer@crd.lotus.com, or here on the list, if you think it's of
general interest.

I can't complain - $3500 and it was in good enough shape to drive 150 miles
home with no problems...

      Yours, ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 14:41:22 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za>
Subject: Re: Locks and tumblers

On Tue, 25 Apr 1995, Michael Carradine wrote:

>  You can open the rear door from the inside handle, it has the same lock

I was under the impression that the shaft between the inside and outside 
handle was solid.

>  Hopefully you're one of the lucky chaps that has all keys still
>  keyed alike.

Unfortunately, they aren't alike. 

>  Anyway, with one new key you can drive the thing, and
>  then install the keyed battery cut-off switch.
  
I would like to have the vehicle lockable as it was before. Mike Fredette 
told me about replacing the lock barrels. I am off to investigate that 
avenue as to price and availability of parts.

Thanks very much for your response.
Donald

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 07:47:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Fairey Overdrive (fwd)

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Rod Hutchinson <rhutch@nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Fairey Overdrive

I've been considering getting an overdrive for my Type III 88 pick-up.
I saw nothing in the preceding www site to help me locate one as used 
parts.  I was wondering if you know where one could find an old one to rebuild?

Thanks for your time

Rod

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 09:22:46 -0500
Subject: Is this normal?

Just a couple gearbox questions...

I've only ever driven one Rover, the one I own, so I don't know if these
things are "normal" or not. Its a '66 IIa, so its not synchro.

First, say I coming to a stop at a stop light, and I take it out of gear
and break to a complete stop. If I try to put it back into first gear,
it grinds. I can see it grinding while downshifting *while moving*, but
sitting at a complete stop? Add to this question the fact that I've
discovered a "speed" where I can shift into first without grinding just
before I come to a complete stop. I.e. it seems that as I'm slowing to
just before a stop, I can slip it down into first with no noise, but if
I stop completely and let it sit, then it grinds.

Secondly, in regards to the parking brake. If I set the brake while the
truck is running, it set up an awful vibration through the truck like its
trying to work against something thats turning. This isn't a big deal for
me, except when I want to work on it while its running, otherwise I just
shut it off before setting the brake.

Could these be related? I thought maybe it was a clutch problem that
wasn't allowing the gearbox free of the motor, but it doesn't pull or
anything if I'm at a stop and its in gear.

Thanks for the input,

Tim
---
tim harincar               harincar@internet.mdms.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: 26 Apr 95 10:46:44 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Coil spring on 89 RR

J. David Stradley wrote:

> I am looking at an 89 RR.  The seller says he had someone look at the
> vehicle who told him a coil spring may need to be replaced.  I have driven

Actually, *if* replacing coils springs, you should replace *both* springs
of an axle. Replacing only one spring can create more problems than it
solves. Note that the two front springs both have different specs - the
spring on the drivers side is supposed to be a bit stiffer than on the
passenger side. *However*, I've heard of many cases of new LHD RRs (not
always, strangely enough) where the stiff driver side spring is on the
right (passenger side), leaving the left driver side to list a bit after a
while. I suppose at Solihull, when they get a couple of urgent LHD orders,
they simply take a few RHD rolling chassis from the running production and
slap a LHD body on it, never mind the springs. The 'spring problem' that the
dealer refers to *might* be solved simply by switching around the front
springs - if that was the problem.

> may be because I didn't know what to look for.  How does a coil spring
> problem show up in the ride of the truck?

Let the truck roll slowly forwards, resp. backwards and come to a firm,
quick stop. If the vehicle takes a noticeable 'dive' on one side more than
the other - and I mean *really* noticeable - then that spring is probably
finished, although on such a relatively new vehicle ('89) this would
surprise me.

> to make sure it worked. There was a noticeable jerk when I put the vehicle
> into low range and when it shifted gears in low range.  I figured this was
> just due to the torque in low range.  Is this jerk normal or indicative of

First of all, you should'nt EVER go into low ratio if the car is still in
motion at all. Come to a complete standstill, take gear out and keep clutch
depressed. You _can_ go back into high ratio with the car moving (slowly),
but you should double-declutch (actually triple-declutch) when doing this.
Apart from this, *all* Rover gearboxes jerk (more or less), even in high
ratio, if you shift gears as you would in a normal saloon car. Unless the
gearbox gives loud, metallic *bangs* when engaging the clutch, this
"drivetrain slack" is normal and even neccessary to absorb a certain amount
of wind-up without straining the material too much.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 26 Apr 95 10:47:51 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: general questions...

>> actually get off road at least twice a week, would like to know possible

> that twice a week was just about right for most people, that is if you're
> American.  If English, twice a month is excessive; if German, twice a week
> if you enjoyed it or not; if Australian (or South African), there was no

*Jawohl!* Actually, with our club it's the first Saturday of every month we
go offroading. This is considered the minimum and is absolutely mandatory,
repeated non-compliance can lead to expulsion from the club :-) .  More
frequent off-road runs are seen favourably and earmark that person for
committee status...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please...
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 95 15:54:07 BST

Hi Alan,
Go ahead,will try and help.I have a '70 S11A 88" 2.25
diesel.I take it yours is the self same power unit.
What colour is the smoke,how does the engine perform,
does it appear to be usig oil,etc etc.First things first,
do an oil and filter change right now,this instant.And
another in,say a thousand miles.Cleans the crud out of
the engine.Use 20/50 oil,nothing thinner.Also make sure
that the air inlet is clear.Diesel's like deep breaths!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 16:56:47 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za>
Subject: Re: Locks and tumblers 

On Tue, 25 Apr 1995, Mike Fredette wrote the following about my stolen keys:

> Rovers North
> part number MTC6505 is a set of four matched lock cylinders including the 
> ignition with key, all for $29.50. 

I have just priced this part - R251 (about US$70). This was at a Land
Rover dealer. The odd thing is that he said that this is a 110 part.  The
Series III replacement part includes lock, door handle, barrel and key and
goes for R300 (about US$84) each. From what you said, Mike, I presume that
the 110 part is the same size required by the Series III except I would
only need 2 of the door locks. Anyway, says the dealer, there is no stock
and one would have to be ordered. 

This would have been a problem for me because the vehicle is still
standing, vulnerable, in my drive-way. Even if I remove the roof-rack I
don't think it will fit into the garage. 

This dealer then kindly gives me the name and number of his opposition. 
>From him I managed to buy one door barrel and key and an ignition switch
for R150 (about US$42). (he only had one door barrel and key, another is
on order.) If I tie the back door up to thwart the holder of the keys and
replace the driver's door lock and ignition switch, I'll have a locked
vehicle once again, that is, if the parts I bought fit. 

Thank you for the advice, Mike.

Donald

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 11:10:23 -0400
From: jcfltee@CAM.ORG (Christian Tassé)
Subject: Re: Land Rover clubs in Canada

I reference to Mr.Clayton Kirkwood remarks...

I am sorry if my english grammar & sentence syntax doesn't seem to please
you..I am French Canadian & might sometimes have some problems trying to
express myself in English. It is sad that some people always have to take
advantage of situations that will discredit others without totaly knowing
all that there is to know. I thought this list was for promotting subjects
regarding Land Rover issues...not laughing at other people's vocabulary
errors...

Regards,

Christian Tasse

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Semi serious D-90 damage
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 95 8:16:19 PDT

Well I finally did some serious damage the the D-90. seems I got
in front of a HAMIT with no brakes. A HAMIT is a large military
eight wheel drive vehicle designed to drive ammo over parked cars.
The so called bumper sits about 6 feet off the ground, and looks 
very impressive comming thu the rear window. Luckly the HAMIT was
doing under 25 MPH, and I was trying to get the hell out of his
way asap. I did relocate the rear door, and spare tire. The Fiber
glass top is in a few more pieces, and the rear window is now 
removable. (it did not even break)
The bumper of the HAMIT hit square on the roll cage and pushed
me along. It was an interesting ride, although I don't think I
would recommend it to all. If I was in a car, I am sure They would
be trying to lift the HAMIT off me...

Russ Burns
94 D-90 slightly damaged
91 R-Rover

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 08:17:36 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Fairey Overdrive (fwd)

Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu> wrote:
>I've been considering getting an overdrive for my Type III 88 pick-up.
 I saw nothing in the preceding www site to help me locate one as used 
 parts.  I was wondering if you know where one could find an old one to
rebuild?

 Overdrives are valuable items for Series Land Rovers.  The unit for
 Series III is interchangeable with II, IIA, and III, and is installed
 (removed) easily.  I expect that in a parting-out recycling operation
 the overdrive is the first to go and may already be spoken for, that
 is, a used overdrive will be VERY difficult if not impossible to find.

 D.A.P. in Springfield, VT 802-885-6660, has new Bearmach overdrives.
 A little pricey, but they outlast Fairey which tend to overheat and
 burnout (according to Scotty).  Mine on a Series III never gave me a
 problem and ran like a clock --with synthetic oil.

-Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 95 08:23:01 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Making keys for locks...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Making keys for locks...
I've seen a locksmith create a key for a padlock (on site) within just a
few minutes. I'm sure there would be a mobile locksmith that could come
to your home and make one for you. As for "the other keys", the ignition
cutoff switch setup would seem to be a necessity now.

Good luck!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Olympic Steeltrek Radials
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 95 16:35:14 BST

Has anyone out there had experience with these tyres?  They are cheapish,
quite chunky and may be exactly what I am after.  Apparently they were
used by the Australian Army as standard issue a few years back.

I'm interested in;

Noise on-road.
Durability on- and off-road.
Ride comfort.
Construction details if available.

Thanks for the help,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 11:42:30 -0400
From: afpgreg@gatekeeper.ddp.state.me.us (Paul V. Gregory)
Subject: P.U.Cab-to-Spare-Tyre Thingee

      
        The subject line says it all!
        Really, I NEED the following for my '61 88" pick up cab: There's a
small, kinda right-angle shaped bracket which bolts in between the cab's
rear spacer plate (that's a galvanized plate which run along the entire
rear-bottom of the cab, closing off the space between the cab behind the
driver and an otherwise breezy access into the front of the pick-up bed) and
the galvanized girder behind the passenger compartment which permits
vertical mount of the spare type within the pick-up bed.
        This needed spare adds rigidity between the cab's rear-centre and
the rest of the Rover. Only 88" pick-ups use this part. It's also available
from neither Rovers East nor Altantic British. 
        Yes, a part number would enable me to appear far more intelligent,
but I'm at the office and the passion of the moment drives me to ask NOW.

        I will MAKE YOU RICH (Sterling or USD) BEYOND YOUR WILDEST
IMAGINATION (within reason, of course)if: 
                1) you know what the hell I'm talking about, and 
                2) you got one to sell/ship to me in Maine, USA.
                                                
                                                cheers, 
                                                --Paul      

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 95 08:55:25 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: CD player in Disco.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: CD player in Disco.
I have a '94 Disco, and went the exact same route on the CD player,
except I think the model I tried was a CDXM-61. This did exactly as
yours did. (I had to special order it, but also was able to return it.)
I ended up getting a JVC 12 disc changer which works okay... but for an
extra $100 or so, you can get the real thing from Rovers North (or one
of the "Rover" companies.) I would recommend getting the real thing.
Mine loses some of the volume. At full volume, the CD player (FM
modulated) is significantly less volume than the radio. Also, the
factory unit allows you to use the controls near the steering wheel
(convenient).

If there is an adaptor made for the Discovery, it would be available
from Crutchfield. Their toll free number is 1-800-955-3000. As of 4-5
months ago, they didn't make an adapter for it, but maybe they do now.
Very helpful people, I recommend them!

Good luck,

Dave Brown - '94 Disco, '71 IIa-88, '70 IIa-109 - One happy camper for now...

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: 26 Apr 95 12:32:22 EDT
From: "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject:  Disco bashing

I just don't understand the bad press I'm reading about the Disco's reliability.
I've got 17000 miles and the only problem I've had is that the gas tank
developed a small leak. The dealer replaced it no questions asked. I am very
happy with the dealer service at LR North Point in Atlanta. This is the first
exclusive LR dealership in the US. Either LR builds a better car for the US
market or you folks must beet the shit out of your vehicles!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 95 09:21:11 PDT
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: Locks and tumblers

Apparently the delay battery cut-offs are rapidly falling out of favor with
auto security device companies.  Apparently thiefs ( or owners who forgot
they had armed the delayed cutoff ) manage to get into traffic before they
stall, lose power steering, brakes, and panic.  Accidents happen and the 
lawsuits start flying.  Many of the low end alarm systems on the market
now exclude a cut-off relay.  Cheap relays would fail, while the driver was
in traffic leading to......

-Rick

Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 13:02:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: gen'l ? twin carb maintenance, adjustment timing with oddball pulley

Bill C. asks;
 
Any way to get know you're at TDC w/o pulling it apart ?
 
The easiest way I know of is remove the spark plugs and rotate the
engine by hand until #1 piston is at the top of the stroke. You can feel
this with a small screw driver or other impliment touching the top of
the piston. Just as it comes up and just before it goes down is TDC. Oh
yea also take off the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is
pointing at #1 tower on the cap.
Mark the crank pulley however you wish, and reference it on the block somehow.
Good luck
Jon

------------------------------

From: Carl Byrne <SPECBB@cardiff.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 18:16:20 GMT
Subject: servicing and warranty

I often read that 'unless the vehicle is serviced by a LandRover 
dealer warranty is void'. Legally speaking is it as clear cut as 
this. I have owned various new vehicles including a 90 Defender and 
two Discoveries. In all cases I have always undertaken my own 
servicing (even the first 1000 mile) and have never had any problems 
with refused warranty claims. In the case of my 1991 spec Disco which 
developed typical gearbox problems (LT 77 box) LandRover agreed to 
fit a new (not reconditioned!!!!) box when it was 18 months old. With 
my 1995 spec Discovery I few things have needed replacing and on every 
occasion the dealer has given me the part(s) and let me get on with 
it. I am obviously fortunate to get on with the dealer in this way.

Am I that fortunate or do other owners have the same 'agreement' 
with their dealers?

Food for thought - When I sold my 1991 spec Disc, which obviously did 
not have an official LandRover fsh, to another dealer, it was 
subsequently purchased with a fullly dated LandRover service history. 

The Moral -- don't take stamped service books as any proof of 
servicing. Before you all bombard me with abuse - no I am not 
suggesting that dealers are dishonest, in fact the dealer that bought 
my Discovery did not even have a LandRover franchise.

Just some thoughts.

Carl (UK)
Dr. Carl Byrne
University of Wales College of Cardiff,
Wales.
UK.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 18:45:46 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Fairey Overdrive (fwd)

It would be unfair not to qualify this, I have never owned a Bearmach 
overdrive. I do own a Fairey. The Fairey gets hot, but if you keep it 
oiled it should survive.  One chap I do a lot of work with on the 'Rover 
said "Bearmach? they're the makers of the self-destructing overdrive" 
when I told him I'd ordered some parts from Bearmach last week.  When 
pressed, he simply said that he'd seen two of these go 'bang' very 
seriously during his days of maintaining lots of Series machines.

I should think the moral might be: treat your overdrive as you would like 
it to treat you, or something similar.  Your milage may vary...

Cheers,
Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 95 10:57:37 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Winch cable ends

HELP!

I think its about time to change the cable on my winch and have discovered that 
it has a nonstandard end to anchor it to the drum.  Any help in locating a 
replacement end o fit on a new cable would be appriciated.

My winch is a Mercury Winch made in Vancouver Canada.  The cable end is 
hemispherical looking like a baby moon hubcap about 2/3rds to 3/4 inch in dia.  
The hemispherical end button fits into a slot in the winch hub to anchor the 
cable.

ANyone have a clue as to where I can dig one up?  The Santa Cruz 4X4 shops say 
"Never heard of that" followed by "I've never seen a cable anchored like that"  
I get the same thing from Harbor Marine and West Marine.

Help!  Please

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 14:30:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Foreign Aid.

On Wed, 26 Apr 1995, Andy Woodward wrote:

> They had TV pictures (along with all the moralistic crap about what heros teh 
> Band Aid folk were) showing tehm unloading the Landrovers they had bought "to 
> transport supplies". Were they High-Capacity-Pickups? Wree they hell. They 
> were County Station Wagons!!!!!!!

	Last night on the BBC World News (shown on the CBC Cable news 
	channel) the Rwanda scenes showed a white UN painted lightweight
	driving about in one of the refugee camps inside Rwanda.  Wonder
	what nationality it was.  (thought the Brits were not there)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 95 12:08:24 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Wheels

I've managed to slightly bend my set of white spoke wheels over the years and 
should replace them when I get new tyres.  I never liked the original stock 
wheels for the IIA, but think maybe I should get something a little more sturdy 
than spokers.

I saw a set of defender steel wheels (not the alloys always seen on US spec 
Defenders) the other weekend and thought they looked a lot nicer than the stock 
series LR wheels.

Does anyone know if the offset, spacings & everything of the Defender steel 
wheels  will allow them to fit properly on a series Land Rover?

Are they good candidates for putting on a 109?

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 13:57:15 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Bill C's V-8

Bill asks about his v-8:

>So, basically, I get up to speed, say, 30mph and I'm about 1800 to 2200 rpm
>and I go to put my foot down a bit further and have a loss of power, it 
>seems like there is more noise coming from the opening in the middle 
>[silencer]
>box, as if it was burning late, and ... ?  what do you think timing off a 
bit >?  carbs off a bit ? both ?

Right now, you are running somewhat retarded (the timing, that is).

>About the timing....
>Now the good news is that after the rebuild, my mechanic tells me that the 
>power steering is off a rover car engine, and the pulley is of unknown 
origin
>(probably a rover car) and is mounted >>backwards<< to give the belts
>clearance, and has >>two<< sets of timing marks and the unusual white 
pointer
>mounted from the block, apparently for timing, is also of unknown origin
>(probably a rover car).   So they hadn't known in advance to leave it set it
>to TDC when they closed it up and thus, well neither set of timing marks is
>verified, and if it makes any difference, it is also now a higher 
compression
>engine than before.  
>Any way to get know you're at TDC w/o pulling it apart ?
>to TDC when they closed it up and thus, well neither set of timing marks is

Yes.  Borrow a dial indicator gauge.  Pull the distributor cap off.  Turn the 
engine over by hand until the rotor is approaching #1.  Take a wire 
coathanger and bend it over (so it won't scratch the piston) and stick it 
down the #1 spark plug hole to make sure the piston is coming up and keep 
turning util it seems to be at tdc.   Pull it out and stick the dial gauge 
down it in such a fashion that you can measure the piston going up and down a 
few thousanthsand secure it somehow.  Turn the engine back until the gauge 
reads downscale about .015, then turn it forward until it reads .007 and 
STOP.  Mark the timing pulley adjacent to the timing pointer or any other 
point of reference with a fine tipped marker or something similar.  Continue 
to turn it in the same direction- it will go to .000 (or whatever it reads 
at tdc) for several degrees (normal) and then begin to go upscale again.  
When it reaches .007 STOP.  Mark the timing pulley again.  Halfway between 
the two marks is TDC.  The .007 figure is abitrary, you could use any that 
you like as long as you mark it the same before and after tdc.

>What about the twin carbs.... ?

ATF is recommended in SUs & Strombergs in Volvos - if you run them dry they 
run real funky.  If you have Strombergs, have you checked the diaphragms for 
tears?  A tear can cause all sorts of mayhem in a dual Stromberg set up.

>Anyway, I'm told that these carbs like to have three-in-one-oil or some such
>put in the dash pot, lest they go out of tune more quickly, and if they do 
go
>out of tune, then you need twin vacuum guages to adjust them...  

A Unisyn gauge is not too expensive, but first make sure the floats are at 
the correct height, then look down the throat of each carb and if adjustable, 
make sure the jets are at the same depth.  Then, when running, the venturis 
should be the same height at idle, and the same height at a given throttle on 
rpm (maybe 2500)- adjust your throttle linkages to achieve this.  NOTE:  In 
"non adjustable" Strombergs, some folks will loosen the needle set screw and 
raise the needle up or down to alter the mixture throughout the range.  Make 
sure this is the same depth in the venturi cylinder for both.

Good luck!

Bill 

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 13:57:15 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Re: Is this normal?

Tim asked:

First, say I coming to a stop at a stop light, and I take it out of gear
and break to a complete stop. If I try to put it back into first gear,
it grinds. 

Yes, it is normal if you shift into 1st quickly or your idle is set too high. 
Snatching 3rd will allow the syncro to synchonize the speed of the mainshaft 
and gears in the box.  Then quickly throw it into 1st.  I do it all the time 
from a stop.  Works to quiet down reverse too.

Secondly, in regards to the parking brake. If I set the brake while the
truck is running, it set up an awful vibration through the truck like its
trying to work against something thats turning. 

Don't set the parking brake while in motion unless your brakes have failed and 
you are about to hit something.  You risk damaging a number of things in the 
driveline in doing so (the vibration is normal-components getting stress they 
weren't designed for).  Be sure you are fully stopped before you apply the 
brake.

Have fun!

Bill

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: 	FW DEF 90 LONG TERM (fwd)
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 95 16:46:23 EDT

> So, a year after the `94 FWOTY, the lustre has not faded! Before I get bashed 
> (again) for sounding like a salesman (rather than just an enthusiast), let's 
> revel in the fact the workhorse Land Rover has captured the hearts of the 
> off-roading public-at-large, not just the devotees of the marque! Yea, team!

RaRaRa,
rd/nige

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 16:12:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Is this normal?

I wrote:

> > Secondly, in regards to the parking brake. If I set the brake while 
> > the truck is running, it set up an awful vibration through the truck 
> > like its trying to work against something thats turning.

Bill replied:

> Don't set the parking brake while in motion unless your brakes have failed and
> you are about to hit something.  You risk damaging a number of things in the
> driveline in doing so (the vibration is normal-components getting stress they
> weren't designed for).  Be sure you are fully stopped before you apply the
> brake.

Opps, sorry if I wasn't clear. No, the Rover isn't moving - thats whats
so wierd about this. If its running, and in neutral, and I set the brake
I get an definate increase in vibration that I can feel through the brake
handle and hear in the cab - seemingly like the brake is clamping a turning
shaft (or something). All very strange. Maybe I'll take it apart and see if
I can see anything thats damaged or misaligned. But what would be turning
if the truck is in neutral and not moving?

BTW, this is not something thats changed recently, its done this since I
bought it last summer - just one of those little quirky things...

Thanks,

Tim
---
tim harincar                  harincar@internet.mdms.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: "thomas r. coron" <tcoron@s850.mwc.edu>
Subject: Re: servicing and warranty, honesty
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 18:07:41 EDT

 Carl writes:

 snip - snip -

servicing. Before you all bombard me with abuse - no I am not 
> suggesting that dealers are dishonest, in fact the dealer that bought 
> my Discovery did not even have a LandRover franchise.

  IMHO - ALL, that is 100% of car dealers and particularly their
         service departments, are dishonest AND/OR incompetent. 
	 This may be U.S. only - I haven't had any experience in
	 any other countries. 

> Carl (UK)
> Dr. Carl Byrne
> University of Wales College of Cardiff,
> Wales.

Tom Coron         tcoron@s850.mwc.edu
King George,Va.   703-775-4575
'66' IIA 88 RHD

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 15:09:20 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: servicing and warranty

 Dr. Carl Byrne <SPECBB@cardiff.ac.uk> writes:

>I often read that 'unless the vehicle is serviced by a LandRover 
 dealer warranty is void'. 

>In the case of my 1991 spec Disco which 
 developed typical gearbox problems (LT 77 box) LandRover agreed to 
 fit a new (not reconditioned!!!!) box when it was 18 months old.

 So THIS is the dealer that's been lurking on the net!  Obviously
 they knew Dr. Byrne is on the LRO net, and moved quickly to avoid
 any complaints being broadcast to TENS OF THOUSANDS of Rover owners.

>Food for thought - When I sold my 1991 spec Disc, which obviously did 
 not have an official LandRover fsh, to another dealer, it was 
 subsequently purchased with a fullly dated LandRover service history. 

 Very creative!

 Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.510-254-3324
 Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

 Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 15:36:03 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: servicing and warranty, honesty

 Thomas R. Coron" <tcoron@s850.mwc.edu> writes:
>  IMHO - ALL, that is 100% of car dealers and particularly their
          service departments, are dishonest AND/OR incompetent. 
 	  This may be U.S. only - I haven't had any experience in
 	  any other countries.

 Now Tom, that's an unfair statement and you knew it the
 moment your fingers stroked the keyboard.  I've run into
 dishonest/incompetent types as well as honest/competent
 types (and everything in between), and frankly, prefer
 the later ones better.  Solution?  Do business with the
 later ones which you know and trust, or, do it yourself
 --unless of course your of the former type!

-Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 15:57:13 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Land Rover clubs in Canada

Christian Tassi <jcfltee@CAM.ORG> writes:
>I am sorry if my english grammar & sentence syntax doesn't seem to please
 you....   I thought this list was for promotting subjects
 regarding Land Rover issues...not laughing at other people's vocabulary
 errors...

 Well said.  I for one am ever thankful that almost everyone I've come
 in contact with on the net, on the telephone, and in my travels to 
 Europe and Latin America, speaks SOME english  --so that my lazy *ss
 doesn't have to bother to learn and/or brush up on a foreign language!

 This is a sad comment from another American living on the edge of the
 new world.

-Michael (Where is California anyway??) Carradine
 cs@crl.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 18:17:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Is this normal?

Re vibration when had brake on.  This is normal in some vehicles.  I have 
it in mine and it is caused by the engine vibration being transferred 
through the parking brake to the cab.  Sometimes the engine or 
transmission rubber mounts are a bit solid and the vibration is 
transferred.  In mine I have new rubbers and they will soften with age 
and the vibration will dissapear.  Look to see that the transmission and 
engine are centred on the mount so that the vibration is absorbed.  I get 
is at stopped with the handbrake on only.  At first (about 5 Land Rovers 
ago) I thought it was a problem but it isn't :-)  Yes you will get a bit 
of gear clash if you are not fully stopped or the idle is too fast.  Go 
into lower gears first to align the gear teeth and then into 1st and it 
will probably solve your problem.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: OUDERKIR@scanva.canton.edu
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 19:54:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: GM Altenators

   I am rewireing my 1970 series IIA 88 and I have never had luck with lucas
parts. I have a GM internal regulated altenator that I would like to hook 
up properly. Right now it is boiling the battery, charging at full all the 
time. It is a 3 wire altenator. I would like to know where each wire should
go before I finish the harness up without the external regulator. If any one
has tried it before. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
                                Kier

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Young LRO
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 95 15:00:00 DST

Christian Tass wrote
>I am fairly new to this list. I am a " six months old"  Discovery owner<
(my quotes) and Bill was concerned about elementary school students!!
 -----------------------------

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Wheels
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 10:20:20 +0930 (CST)

Hi TerriAnn long time no chat!

> Does anyone know if the offset, spacings & everything of the Defender steel 
> wheels  will allow them to fit properly on a series Land Rover?
> Are they good candidates for putting on a 109?

Ok Disco steels will not fit series vehicles without modification, but...

The only problem is the offset.  You will need to have the centre 
(nave plate ?)  turned out and repositioned.  Not too expensive, any
competant rim manufacturer/repairer should be able to do this.  Some of the
members of the local land rover club have done this.  Looks great on a 109
IIa. 

Over here its actually cheaper to do this to the 7" x 16" disco rims than to
buy good 5.5" x 16"  Series or defender rims :-( 

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Olympic Steeltrek Radials
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 10:39:04 +0930 (CST)

Hi Andy, you ask:

> Has anyone out there had experience with these tyres?  They are cheapish,
> quite chunky and may be exactly what I am after.  Apparently they were
> used by the Australian Army as standard issue a few years back.
I think they may still be OZ army issue, certainly plenty of army L/R's still
wear them.

I used 8 Ply rated steeltreks many years ago on my IIa 109 so...

> Noise on-road.     ( Say What ???)

High  tend to "drum" but not as bad as Goodyear Xtra track and other
aggressive x-plys.
> Durability on- and off-road.

Uuuum  I cant remember how long they lasted...  They were pretty good
off-road and (subjectively) were "tougher" than most.  In very sharp rocky
terrain the big lugs were prone to getting cut up, but probably no worse than
any other aggressive tyre and certainly better than BFG Mud-terrains
Quite "tough" resistant to stacking etc.
Tend to scallop if you dont look after them.
Not the most responsive tyre for "sports driving"  better than x-plys but not
as good as milder tyres such as Goodyear wranglers.

> Ride comfort.

Better than X-ply....  Didnt seem any different to the Goodyear wranglers
that I replaced them with.

> Construction details if available.
>From memory.. 2ply polyester walls 2ply steel beted tread area.

Im not certain why but Steeltreks were never as popular as there Dunlop
equivalent the which I think is now called the Super-Gripper. PL48 ??
 (Not to be confused with the Japanese dunlop of the same name which is
abysmal)   
It may have been a tread wear thing... scalloping? ... I'm really not
certain...  Just that the Dunlop was much more popular with "Joe public".
Mining companies around Darwin were split about 50/50,  Station owners liked
the steeltrek.... 

Just what I remember when I was selling them...... (a long time ago)

cheers

--  

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 01:59:09 -0600 (CST)
From: "S.Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: fixin' up a 2a-88. Need advice

In message Tue, 25 Apr 95 09:22:10 MST, DEBROWN@SRP.GOV  writes:

# SUBJECT: fixin' up a 2a-88. Need advice
# I just bought a 1971 series 2a 88 (for my son, mostly) and as this is my
# first series rover, I have a few questions.

So you've upgraded to a series. Good.

# 1. Transmission makes a LOUD whine when decelerating in 2nd gear.
# Accelerating is fine. Also, slips out of 3rd gear after a minute or so
# if not held there. What should I look for when opening it up? Probable
# causes? Costs?

2nd: At what speed do you throw it in 2nd?

3rd: There are two sets of detent springs to keep the box in gear. All (3)
selector rods are kept in place by a coil spring inserted from the sides
(R and 3/4) and from the top (1/2). They are hidden under a piece of angle
iron (sides) and a bolt (top).
The 3/4 syncro has 3 steel blade springs to help the coil springs. Take off
the bellhousing and take out the syncroniser to check these springs. You
might as well replace them while you're at it. That will save you trouble
later. If one of those springs brake it might jam the gears so you that
you are unable to select gear (3/4). Which is fine because then you know
that something is wrong. Sometimes they don't jam and the syncro hub will
lose it's symetry because the springs don't brake all at once. When the hub
is unsymetric, the flanges which are brass will wear rapidly and you will be
almost without sync in high gears. I speak from experience. I brush Aurens'
teeth daily.
Order both sets of springs and the little balls at the end of the coil
springs. These parts are dirt cheap.

You could also make an experiment,- Get the coils/balls plus a set of
selector rods (current ones might be worn bad). Check the hub for symetry
and (do you have ice in the venes?) if ok, reinsert it without the springs.
I don't think rods are that expensive either.

# 2. Finally convinced my son that it WON'T have a V8 in her, but agreed
# to put bigger tires on. What's the tallest tire (size) for 15" rims? I'd
# like to keep the spare on the hood, but if wider tire will fit, I could
# hang it on the rear. Anyone know a source for white spoke wheels? Should
# I get 16" rims? She currently has street tires on her... those GOTTA go!

I believe you can turn faster with larger wheels. I have made it a habit
to turn in 3rd whenever possible. Helps the fuel economy a little.

# Thanks in advance for your input! I really appreciate any input, whether
# good or bad. (or especially humorous!)

You will need your sense of humor whenever you start working on a gearbox.

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Wheels
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 95 11:08:21 EST

> Ok Disco steels will not fit series vehicles without modification, but...

> The only problem is the offset.  You will need to have the centre 

> Over here its actually cheaper to do this to the 7" x 16" disco rims than to
> buy good 5.5" x 16"  Series or defender rims :-( 

Actually, the wider off set will stop the tyres from rubbing on the 
springs and chassie, and will improve your turing circle.

So they do actually bolt strait on.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: gen'l ?  twin carBills V8 probs
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 11:09:27 +0930 (CST)

Hi Bill,
> All right, so every morning, I get up, I coax the rover to crank over and
> start, and usually don't wait any length of time for it to warm up.

(snip)

Sounds like its retarded.....   You dont have one of those advance retard
distributors do you??   Maybe the vacuum pipes are hooked up back to front? 
 (I have no experience with these but it sounds worth checking)
They were fitted to some Rangies.  This is a rangie isnt it...

> What about the twin carbs.... ?
> Any advice from those experienced with them ?  
 
I wont claim to be experienced in the carbys but have had several interesting
experiences with them....

1. they will be Very unhappy with no oil..  The rover manual suggests engine
oil.  Over here I use 20w/50 but that might be too thick in colder climates.
The dashpot damper provides enrichment on acceleration much like an
accelerator pump,  oil viscosity is one way of altering the mixture under
initial acceleration.  It has no effect on steady state throttle openings
just acceleration.   Without oil the motor will be "flat" on acceleration as
it will be running too lean.   If you loose oil from the dash pots check the
seal on the needle holder.  (This may not apply there are quite a few
variations of there carbs.)

2.I've found that its really importent to make sure that the float chamber is
well vented.  If the filter leading to the float chamber ghets blocked the
motor will idle ok but will not rev, just starves for fuel,  havent worked
out exactly why, it just is...

3. Overhauls are cheap and simple, even if you dont think you need one, you
may...   Some of the locals do it once a year!

I was getting lousy fuel economy (worse than the usual "poor") There were no
problems with the needle/seat, base mixture setting or diaphrams...

Cleaning out the internal passages and fitting the kit improved the economy
nearly 20%.  The car didnt run better just cheaper....

4.  There is a rover special tool to balance the carbs....
Or you can go to your local performance parts place and buy a Carb..
Synchronising tool  I got the only one available in Darwin NT a german
MotoMeter for ~$35-40.  i've seen cheap plastic ones which would do the same
job for about half that.

If you have adjustable needles as opposed too an adjustable jet you will have
too get the special adjusting tool, at least for the later "reverse blade
screw" type.   If you are really brave the earlier ones can be done with an
allen key and a screw-driver but its a bit dodgy.

Geeze I've rabbitted on.

contact me if you need more info

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Wheels
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 11:12:21 +0930 (CST)

Craig writes:
> Actually, the wider off set will stop the tyres from rubbing on the 
> springs and chassie, and will improve your turing circle.

The disco wheels I looked at were off set inwards so you have at least 1.5
inches  less clearance on the chassis side..... 

> So they do actually bolt strait on.

Never tried...

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: 26 Apr 95 22:04:39 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: locks et al

The ignition and door locks of the Land Rover mostly use keys in the FS and FP
series, if you know the number replacements can be bought.
 The tumblers can be removed by looking for a small hole at the back of the lock
and poking in a  0,75 mmm wire ( .030"0 to push in the detent peg.
 When the barrel is out it is a simple matter to make another similar series key
fit. Simply fit the key and you will observe that severalof the brass plates
protrude from the barrel, file these down to the barrel and refit the barrel to
the lock, the original or the replacement key will operate the lock.

 David Brown  your 71 ser 2a has either  been modified by fitting earlier parts
for the headlights or it is not a 71,  How do yuo know that it is a 71? is an ex
army vehicle for example which was registered on release from the army ?
 Slipping out of Third gear problems can be sorted by fitting a replacement
2nd/3rd gear mainshaft bush, cost about $30 or you can have a "reconditioned in
our workshops" gearbox in which somebody else has put in the bush for around
$400.For the few hundred that I have done I wish I could have got $400 plus !!!!

 Regardes Bill Leacock   Limey in exile 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 17:15:16 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Re: Is this normal?

Tim clarified:

>Opps, sorry if I wasn't clear. No, the Rover isn't moving - thats whats
>so wierd about this. If its running, and in neutral, and I set the brake
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>I can see anything thats damaged or misaligned. But what would be turning
>if the truck is in neutral and not moving?

When in neutral with the engine running, the input shaft is turning with the 
clutch/flywheel.  The 90wt has enough friction to transmit a small amount of 
torque through the gearbox while running in neutral (why it grunches when you 
put in in 1st at a stop).  However, I suspect that something has disintigrated
to a point where even more friction is transmitted thorough the box.  If the 
brass 3rd/4th distance sleeve is badly worn/in pieces, it could allow the 
synchro cone for 4th to brush against it's mating surface on the input shaft 
while in neutral, making it want to turn things in the box.  Stripping down 
your box and replacing the bad bits is not that difficult, it just takes time 
and patience and the willingness to follow the manual.  Personally I'd pull it
out and strip it down.

Bill

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 19:32:41 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: GM Altenators

>    I am rewireing my 1970 series IIA 88 and I have never had luck with lucas
> parts. I have a GM internal regulated altenator that I would like to hook 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> has tried it before. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
>                                 Kier
 
Here's an old post on said subject, spelling error and all.

 Your alternator requires "feedback" to let it know what the voltage in the 
system is so that it can produce more or less depending on demand. I believe
that Lucas alternators require a regulator for this function. The one on my
XK-E had a regulator, whitch was the last Lucas alternator I've seen. Current
US made alternators have the regulator built in but a "sense" wire is connected
to the +12 volts far away from the alternator output so the built in regulator
knows the voltage in the system and tries to keep it at 13.5 volts. Sounds like
your alternator thinks the system voltage is low because of a bad or "missing" 
conection. Incidentally, most people will tell you to "just hook the sense
wire to the alternator output". Yes it works, but since there is a voltge drop
along the heavy wire that takes the current from the alt. to the main distrbu
-tion point (usually the fuse box), the voltage in the system will be low,
especially when the current demand is great. Like a cold raininy night, when
you've got everything turned on

There are three wires coming out;

The output  (the big one)

The sense   (senses the voltage at the battery terminal, this is the one you
             don't have connected)

The idiot light (do you care?)

Regards, Bill G

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 1995 23:29:35 -0400
From: Andrew Steele <ad158@DAYTON.WRIGHT.EDU>
Subject: RR hood tire mounts?

Hello,

As the weather encourged me to give the 87 RR it's annual end of winter wash,
I got to thinking about mounting the spare tire on the hood.  I sample trip
around the neighborhood indicated that it would be possible, but with some
degree of visibility loss.  

Question: Has anyone tried this with a range rover, if so what mounting
arrangements did you make?  

Advantages: Increased cargo space in the rear, no muddy spare rolling around
in the back, appearance (will you series folks wave then?).

Disadvantages: Lock probably necessary to avoid theft, loss of visibility,
stress on hood & hinges, presumed increase in wind noise/resistance on the
highway (didn't want to rely on just gravity to try this).  What have I missed?

Comments - suggestions - (If I could ever locate a diesel series something I
bet I could be easily influenced to forget this.)

Andrew 
Dayton, Ohio
ad158@dayton.wright.edu

Thanks.

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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