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1 | jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) | 11 | Electric Land Rover specs sought |
2 | William Caloccia [calocc | 52 | [not specified] |
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 94 12:34:09 EDT From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: Electric Land Rover specs sought >Reply-To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <EV%SJSUVM1.BITNET@mitvma.mit.edu> >Sender: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <EV%SJSUVM1.BITNET@mitvma.mit.edu> [ truncated by lro-digester (was 47 lines)] > _Nine Princes In Amber_, by Roger Zelazny > richard childers san francisco, california pascal@netcom.com >Electric Land Rover specs sought ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941009 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: silicone BF Date: Sat, 08 Oct 94 16:00:23 -0400 From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com> Most SCCA racers (IT sedans, etc.) I know *don't* use it. There is the purpose-formulated AP 550 and the AP 600, which you'd have to change before every race, though the club racers say the hot ticket is Mercedes Brake Fluid or the Ford Heavy Duty Break Fluid - both are high boiling point and relatively atmosphere-stable so they don't need to change the fluid just 'cause its sat for a week. [Of course, to my knowledge, neither is compatible with natural rubber seals as L/R owners are familiar with.] Those gear-head drivers I know who have tried it have not liked it, 'cause the silicone, (new or used) is slightly more compressible, and to them it gives an unacceptable 'spongy' feel. On the other hand a mechanic friend of mine recommends and regularly installs silicone in his customer's cars for the low-maintenance qualities - and since it doesn't absorb water, things won't rust from the inside out. I always used the Ford stuff in the 'stang and the XR4, the 'stang was done done just before BMW driver's schools (usually once in the spring, and once in the fall. Before going to higher spec fluid I would have liked to have milled the face of the rotor (a concentric circle or crossed lines in the surface of the rotor will provide the surface of the brake pads gets fresh air twice+ times per revolution). When you get down to it, most of the time improvements in braking will come from keeping the brake materials cool (hence milled -> vented -> cross drilled rotors, with ducting and vaned wheels that suck the air out). YP(ad)W(ear)MV I used Castrol LMA in everything else. Somewhere early on I learned what colour brake fluid was supposed to be, and recall reading that it ought to be flushed at not more than 2-year intervals. How hydro-scopic the LMA was didn't matter on my decade-old '78 honda wagon, 'cause most of the brake parts were rusting from the outside-in, so that inevitably got updated yearly, if not more often :~& Amazingly enough what's in the resivoir of my IIa is still clear and doesn't appear contaminated after a couple years (low mileage though it may be). As for this RR, where did I put the mity-vac ? Of course, if you haven't done the conversion to silicone before, you should note that normal brake fluid is considered a contaminant to silicone, so you've got to flush all that old stuff out, before you can start loading up the silicone. Sounds like a bunch of work eh ? No wonder my mechanic friend recommends it to his customers... Cheers, --bill caloccia@Team.Net caloccia@Stratus.Com 1 3 dl OD L "Land Rover's first, becuase |--|--+ o | | Land Rovers last." 2 4 R N H '72 Range Rover ++ '69 S.IIa 88" ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941009 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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