From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 3 17:20:26 1993
Return-Path: <caloccia@tornadic.sw.stratus.com>
To: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Oil Filter 2.25L / Re: Discojap / 110" / NYS
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Fri, 11 Jun 93 09:43:53 BST."
<9306110843.AA02852@hpc.lut.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 93 10:21:20 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@tornadic.sw.stratus.com>
I once got a Baldwin brand oil filter element, but have lost the info on
the element number -- does anyone out there know what the filter element
equivalents are in the US -- Fred Monsees used to just walk next door to
a truck place and buy 'em... (mine is a '69 suffix G, if that matters)
---------
Ok, so I just read my LRO mail for the last month here are some random
comments on those postings.
---------
Well, the only good think I can say 'bout the disco going to Japan, is that
maybe I'll get to check one out when I'm over there in a couple weeks :-)
---------
I got to drive a 110" at Foreign Motors West (Natick,Ma) seems they
ended up with a Demo from LRNA, and a trade with 4,000 miles on it (seems this
traded in a RR on it, man brought the 110 home, and his wife would have
nothing to do with it [she didn't drive sticks, and wouldn't even ride in it],
so he brought it back and got another RR). Unfortunately I just got to
take it about the block, but it was still pretty neat.
They expect the 90"s to be here in September. I keep lusting after a new one,
but, then I think what a fraction of that $$$ could do for my 88"...
---------
NY Registration of Land Rovers, I did notice that this time about,
the vehicle type was printed as SUBN (suburban ?) -- I thought it used to be
SW (station wagon). For passenger and comercial in NY the main charges
are based on weight (though commercial is much more expensive, and goes by
GVW) -- As passenger vehicles my '69 land rover and '87 mustang cost nearly
the same (the 'stang weighting in at 3300 #) to register at the DMV (though the
insurance differs much).
--bill wpc@caloccia.net caloccia@Stratus.Com
N R 1 3 2 H "Land Rover's first, becuase
| +--|--| | | Land Rovers last." '69 Mk.IIa 88"
OD 2 4 4 L land-rover-owners-request@Team.Net
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Aug 5 09:45:14 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Engine Mounts To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Thu, 5 Aug 93 15:34:15 BST It will be necessary soon to replace the front right-hand engine mount on my Rover.The present incumbent is a rapidly decaying gooey mess,although the other side is OK.Has anyone done this?If so what, if any,are the snags,pitfalls,etc?Like where does one jack the engine up,and is it necessary to unbolt *both* sides to lift the lump far enough,(in which case I may as well replace them both),or can I lift it far enough to just replace the one? All and any suggestions gratefully received (if printable in polite circles):-) Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Aug 5 10:05:48 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: Re: Engine Mounts To: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 93 15:56:40 BST Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com In-Reply-To: <9308051434.AA29620@hpc.lut.ac.uk>; from "Mike Rooth" at Aug 5, 93 3:34 pm Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Mike asks: > It will be necessary soon to replace the front right-hand engine > mount on my Rover..........Has anyone done this?If so what, > if any,are the snags,pitfalls,etc?........ Piece o' cake Mike! You might as well do them both. Disconnect both top nuts on the mounts - with a Whitworth spanner, on mine anyway. Jack up the whole engine via a trolley jack and hefty block of wood to spread the load over the sump. Put a wedge between the x-member and bellhousing for safety, so the block can't fall if the jack fails. Undo the LH mount and replace with a new one, it has one lower bolt to a welded on bracket to the frame. To do the RHS note that there is a bolt-on bracket betweed the frame and mount. Undo the two bolts which hold this to frame and take the combination off. Bolt new mount on bracket and voila! - reassembly is a reversal of the above procedure, as Mr Haynes would say no doubt. You can fully tighten the mount top nuts when the engine is lowered again. I met Dixon in Canada one evening last night during a busy business trip and was shown around Ottawa including a trip to see a well restored/updated Series One which quite inspired me to get one! Anyone know if the V8 drops nicely into the Series One, it is lower bodied after all? Thanks for the tour Dixon, shame I couldn't stay for the off-roading, how did it go? Cheers, Steve. '74 V8 Lightweight
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 6 00:57:47 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Engine Mounts
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1993 19:34:44 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> writes:
> Piece o' cake Mike! You might as well do them both.
Oh yeah? When are you over hear again? :-) It was a pain when I
did them, though having the threads damaged didn't help matters
any. The left side was a disaster to do.
> Jack up the whole engine via a trolley jack and hefty block of wood to
> spread the load over the sump. Put a wedge between the x-member and
> bellhousing for safety, so the block can't fall if the jack fails.
The first bit is correct, the second, while a good idea might not
be possible. When I did the swap I ended up putting a slight dent
in the bulkhead to get the necessary clearance. Putting a wedge in
there to protect the bulkhead wasn't possible.
> shame I couldn't stay for the off-roading, how did it go?
Not to bad... :-) Drove through trees, knocking them over as we
went (your basic weed-type populars), avoided the fire hydrants
(though grazed one that suddenly popped out of a bush), did the
rock face. Took a roll of pictures, which after being developed
will turn some into gifs for upload to hoosier. July 31st was part
of a long weekend (Monday was a bank holiday) so only had a Series
I, two Series II's, my Series IIA, and a Series III. You will have
to time your next journey to coincide with a weekend. If you could
grab a few days off, the next big event will be the British
Invasion show in Stowe Vermont on the weekend of September 17th. A
good number of OVLR Land Rovers are going down to the event. There
is everything there from pre-War Bentleys etc. to current British
stuff there. They get a couple hundred cars there. Good show.
Now, in retrospect, could you have gotten away with missing the
plane? :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
PS, only blew away two tail lights on the 109. I have order
another six from the UK, along with two complete assemblies...
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 6 01:16:08 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Engine Mounts
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1993 19:29:36 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> writes:
> It will be necessary soon to replace the front right-hand engine
> mount on my Rover.The present incumbent is a rapidly decaying gooey
> mess,although the other side is OK.Has anyone done this?If so what,
> if any,are the snags,pitfalls,etc?
The right side is a piece of cake, the left I have found is a pain
in the butt. The right disconnects from the block easily, so after
you have removed the top nuts, it should lift out without much of a
problem. Your only problem will be the bell housing impacting on
the bulkhead. It shouldn't be a problem with the right side, but
again, on the left, it will probably be a problem.
Of course, why am I familiar with this process you ask? It is
called figuring that the engine mounts were fine when we swapped
the engine. Of course they were both toast, but we didn't have any
spares. In went the dead ones, so I had to change them a week
later...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 6 18:07:11 1993 Return-Path: <RSROSE@CELIA.CALTECH.EDU> Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1993 15:57:12 -0700 (PDT) From: "RANDY ROSE (818)395-3840" <RSROSE@celia.caltech.edu> Subject: Parts To: lro@transfer.stratus.com X-Envelope-To: lro@stratus.com X-Vms-To: IN%"lro@stratus.com" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT I seem to recall seeing that someone had compiled a list of parts sources in the US--someone in Texas I believe. I seem to have deleted the reference I had. If anyone knows or has, can you contact me at the E-Mail address below (I'm not receiving the mail list postings directly) Thanks much Randy Rose 1957 107 Station Wagon Pasadena, California (818)395-3840 rsrose@juliet.caltech.edu California Institute of Technology
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 6 19:03:13 1993 Return-Path: <RSROSE@CELIA.CALTECH.EDU> Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1993 16:54:04 -0700 (PDT) From: "RANDY ROSE (818)395-3840" <RSROSE@celia.caltech.edu> Subject: Test To: lro@transfer.stratus.com X-Envelope-To: lro@stratus.com X-Vms-To: IN%"lro@stratus.com" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT A test, as I got the last message back as undeliverable. I lost the return header (and the reason for return), and am sending this to get a repeat message. Sorry for any inconvenience. Randy Rose rsrose@juliet.caltech.edu
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 6 19:20:18 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Sat, 7 Aug 93 00:10:46 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: mounts Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> writes: > It will be necessary soon to replace the front right-hand engine > mount on my Rover.The present incumbent is a rapidly decaying gooey > mess,although the other side is OK.Has anyone done this?If so what, > if any,are the snags,pitfalls,etc? and dixon and steve had some insightful replies. my experience was more in tune with dixon's than steve's, but this may be due to the fact that dixon and i share the series II/IIa rigs and don't have this fancy air portable rover. I suspect that over the years the mount setup may have changed since steve seems to have missed out on all the fun that dixon and i had while we struggled with ours...... Awhile ago i made a suggestion that was shot down but will reiterate again nonetheless. When i did my mounts i removed the bracket on the left side (drivers side on lhd export)-the bracket that bolts to the motor itself via two studs. If you take a look you will say to yourself NO F^&*ing way is that going back on there.....which I did, but had no choice in the matter.....and it did go back on (with patience but ease). In my case I had to deal with an old style thru-da-wing exhaust system (since replaced manifold-tailpipe) that limited the amount of lift I could get on the block (without removing the pipe which i was not prepared to do at the time). (note: this may be why the bulkhead survived the operation unscathed....never got the motor high enough to hit it.) ok...after removing the r/s mount (a breeze on lhd rovers... dunno about rhd's) and loosening this l/s bracket i was able to jack up the motor, shift it ever so slightly to the r/s (I also had busted rear mounts that may have facilitated this operation), and remove/replace the left mount. Next i put the left bracket back in place (easier than it looked) and threaded the nuts holding it in (THIS operation requires nimble fingers-esp for the top nut-and patience galore). Without tightening anything yet, i moved to the r/s and installed the mount etc. Then I moved back over to the horse manure on the left side (I ain't got no garage and do most of my work with my back in dry manure....at least it is dry) and tightened down the bracket. THIS operation required alot of patience as the top nut is tough to get to-no socket/universal combo would do the trick and i had to resort to an open end, 1/16 of a turn at a time....cleaning your threads so you can hand thread the top nut is strongly reccomended. The rest-just tightening down the mounts themselves and the r/s bracket fixings was straightforward. To reiterate (again) and sum up (if you're still with me): -dixon's method of just jacking up and shifting over may work just fine (providing your exhaust will clear). -if you need more clearance than jacking the motor will provide you the l/s bracket can be removed, although it is admittedly not the easiest of operations to reinstall it. As i write i wonder....the rear mounts for me were particularly painful (in fact, i ended up shaving about 1/16" off of each mount to get them back in) and i subsequently found out that removing the floors and bench are suggested (by RN) to get that extra bit of clearance necessary to do them. Dixon-when you did your mounts did you have your floors and seats in that rig or were you still driving "flintstone style"? If your floors and seat were out could this be why you were able to get the motor so high (and why you hit the bulkhead?? hmmmmmmm, rdushin/nigel (who doesn't mind the lack of windows...in fact, he likes the privacy of being a blindsider).
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Aug 7 15:19:12 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Sat, 7 Aug 93 20:10:46 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: update required?? Folks- every time i send a msg to this net i get two returns, free of charge, from undeliverable mail. it appears that someone who was once on this net is now no longer.......within the header from this returned mail i find: >This message could not be delivered to these addresses because KNAPP1 -- Lewis Knapp has left Apple. and in the other i get: >From: Mailer-Daemon@transfer.stratus.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem) Subject: Returned mail: Can't create output Message-Id: <9308070011.AB14284@transfer.stratus.com> To: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu Status: R ----- Transcript of session follows ----- al@sun.com... User unknown Saving message in //dead.letter //dead.letter... Can't create output 550 "|/usr/lib/sendmail -fcar-list-rejects@stratus.com land-rover-owner-out"... Can't create output ----- Unsent message follows ----- i suspect that these are/were two different folks (one worked for apple, the other for sun?) who are no longer with us (on this net at least). two questions- 1) is everybody having this problem? 2) bill G: can you straighten this out? thanks much, rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Aug 7 15:26:22 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: mounts
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1993 13:01:30 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes:
> I suspect that over the years the mount setup may have
> changed since steve seems to have missed out on all the fun that dixon
> and i had while we struggled with ours......
Steve having a v8 version, his engine will farther forward than
ours. In the 109, the point of impact when raising the engine/
gearbox is on the topmost part of the bell housing. If the engine
had been farther forward, there would have been more clearance to
play these games. I also gound, for the LH mount, to loosen the RH
mount nearly to the end of the threads, but *not* to disconnect it.
Thus, when raising the engine, you are going to tip the engine,
giving you the opportunity to get the LH side higher.
> Awhile ago i made a suggestion that was shot down but will reiterate
> again nonetheless. When i did my mounts i removed the bracket on the
> left side (drivers side on lhd export)-the bracket that bolts to the
> motor itself via two studs. If you take a look you will say to yourself
> NO F^&*ing way is that going back on there.....which I did, but had
> no choice in the matter.....and it did go back on (with patience but
> ease).
You must have more patience than a saint. I looked at the
possibility of removing the LH bracket, but concluded that I would
be insane to take than approach. Those bolts are not fun to play
with, you have to put jack stands under the engine and other
bracking to insure that this mess doesn't shift on you when you are
under it... To much like work. Note, I had both wings off for
this operation, and throught that removing the LH bracket was not
going to be fun... If you did this with the wings on, well...
> In my case I had to deal with an old style thru-da-wing exhaust
> system (since replaced manifold-tailpipe) that limited the amount of
> lift I could get on the block (without removing the pipe which i was
> not prepared to do at the time).
You have to disconnect the exhaust pipe on the 2.25l. Raising the
engine quickly shows that the pipe hits the underside of the Land
Rover and will start to distort etc. if not removed. Tis only
three nuts, or one nut and two bolts in my case...
> ok...after removing the r/s mount (a breeze on lhd rovers...
An understatement. On a RHD all of the steering mechanism will be
there to get in the way. Of couse this is offset by having the
steering to make an already difficult job worse on the LHS.
> I moved back over to the horse manure on the left side (I ain't got no
> garage and do most of my work with my back in dry manure....at least it
> is dry)
ROFL... :-)
> and i had to resort to an open end, 1/16 of a turn at a time....
You're nuts!
> To reiterate (again) and sum up (if you're still with me):
> -dixon's method of just jacking up and shifting over may work
> just fine (providing your exhaust will clear).
Disconnect the exhaust; if you are really adventerous, remove the
wings, or at least the LH wing; have WD-40 available in quantity;
don't forget the lock washers which in the bottom LH stud is a real
pain to put on with the nut.
> As i write i wonder....the rear mounts for me were particularly painful
Oh please! I haven't done these yet! Ahhh! You have experience.
Visiting Ottawa in the future? <evil grin>
> Dixon-when you did your mounts did you have your floors and
> seats in that rig or were you still driving "flintstone style"?
Floors, gearbox cover, et cetera were out at the time, but the bell
housing hits on the edge of the bulkhead itself. It really doesn't
make that much difference, though possibly the gearbox cover not
being there helped. I didn't check at the time. To do the gearbox
mounts, the seat boxes may have to come out (shudder).
> rdushin/nigel (who doesn't mind the lack of windows...in fact, he likes
> the privacy of being a blindsider).
A the rate I "bump" trees, my Station Wagon might was well be a
blind sider... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Aug 7 18:08:18 1993
Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu>
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 93 22:57:46 GMT
From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: more mounts
dixon's replies to my statements:
> In my case I had to deal with an old style thru-da-wing exhaust
> system (since replaced manifold-tailpipe) that limited the amount of
> lift I could get on the block (without removing the pipe which i was
> not prepared to do at the time).
Reply:
You have to disconnect the exhaust pipe on the 2.25l. Raising the
engine quickly shows that the pipe hits the underside of the Land
Rover and will start to distort etc. if not removed. Tis only
three nuts, or one nut and two bolts in my case...
ya, it is only three nuts....but it was three nuts that had never been
off since birth thirty some odd years ago. when i did the mounts i didn't
want to go near them......when i did the exhaust they fell right off in
my hands-along with half of my manifold!
> I moved back over to the horse manure on the left side (I ain't got no
> garage and do most of my work with my back in dry manure....at least it
> is dry)
Reply:
ROFL... :-)
there is no comparison of the excrement of a horse with that of a pig, cow
dog, or any other mammal (except for a moose) for that matter. once dry
it is "just like dirt". whattaheck, i've wallowed in it all my life...
not so bad. besides, probaly alot better off working in #$it than in the
midst of an ontario thaw (or snowstorm even).
> and i had to resort to an open end, 1/16 of a turn at a time....
Reply:
You're nuts!
yeah, but i am a patient nut.
> As i write i wonder....the rear mounts for me were particularly painful
Oh please! I haven't done these yet! Ahhh! You have experience.
Visiting Ottawa in the future? <evil grin>
dunno-is "no borders" ultimate tourney over yet?? not sure i'll be making
it to algonquin this year either-can you wait 'til next year??
> Dixon-when you did your mounts did you have your floors and
> seats in that rig or were you still driving "flintstone style"?
Floors, gearbox cover, et cetera were out at the time, but the bell
housing hits on the edge of the bulkhead itself. It really doesn't
make that much difference, though possibly the gearbox cover not
being there helped. I didn't check at the time. To do the gearbox
mounts, the seat boxes may have to come out (shudder).
as i said i "schibed" mine by shaving off about 1/16"-just enough to get the
thing in and left enough threads for the nylock w/a flat washer as well
(although "enough" is in this case a relative term). this allowed me to get
by without removing the seat boxes (which didn't even occur to me until after
the fact...i figured it was the bulkhead that was holding it up-ie down).
> rdushin/nigel (who doesn't mind the lack of windows...in fact, he likes
> the privacy of being a blindsider).
A the rate I "bump" trees, my Station Wagon might was well be a
blind sider... :-)
perhaps what you really need is an 88.
chow,
rdushin/nigel
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Aug 8 11:36:25 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: more mounts
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1993 10:12:39 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes:
> ya, it is only three nuts....but it was three nuts that had never been
> off since birth thirty some odd years ago. when i did the mounts i didn't
> want to go near them......when i did the exhaust they fell right off in
> my hands-along with half of my manifold!
Yeah, that can be a good reason to avoid playing with the exhaust,
though by playing with mine, I ended up replacing hangers, the
silencer/tail pipe, and now have the front and intermediate pipes
on the way from the UK. Hmmm, maybe I should have left the exhuast
alone... :-) Half the manifold fell off? I assume it was cracked
from something.
> besides, probaly alot better off working in #$it than in the midst of an
> ontario thaw (or snowstorm even).
You do have a point there. It was just the image formed in my mind
of the lengths that Land Rover owners go to when repairing, or
enhancing, their vehicles that I found amusing. You are right
though, you have it slightly easier than I in the winter...
<shiver>
> dunno-is "no borders" ultimate tourney over yet?? not sure i'll be making
> it to algonquin this year either-can you wait 'til next year??
A friend at work is into Ultimate. I'll ask him. Algonquin is
only a couple hour drive from Ottawa.
> by without removing the seat boxes (which didn't even occur to me until after
> the fact...i figured it was the bulkhead that was holding it up-ie down).
It is the edge of the bulkhead that gets in the way. The gearbox
cover may be a problem, depending on how much the gearbox itself
actually lifts in the exercise. The highest point on the gearbox
is the shifter mechanism, and with the rubber grommet around it,
moving up shouldn't cause that much of a problem. The floors etc.
are easy to remove anyway.
> perhaps what you really need is an 88.
:-) True. That or a Lightweight for the woods would be ideal.
All that is required is a combination of time and $$$. Have to
finish the Cooper 'S' and Mini Convertable first, sell the Summer
Mini, dispose of the Winter Mini (yeah,, I have four of them) and
then I will be able to deal with adding an 88 to the collection.
(Know anyone interested in a '72 Cortina?)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Aug 9 11:07:39 1993 Return-Path: <phhester@lenexa.lenexa.ingr.com> From: phhester@lenexa.lenexa.ingr.com (Paul Hester) Subject: Greetings To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Mon, 9 Aug 93 10:41:16 CDT Reply-To: phhester@lenexa.lenexa.ingr.com Hello, I just found this address last week. I live in Overland Park, Kansas outside Kansas City. I own a 1973 Land Rover 88 red (very important) hardtop that I bought in Pennsylvania in December (and drove 1000 miles to Kansas - I'm still sore in places). I have just finished doing an extensive rebuild to the engine and while I was at it, wire brushing and painting the front half of the frame and engine compartment area. I have installed new brakes, master cylinder, clutch master and slave cylinder, overdrive and stainless steel exhaust. This is the first Land Rover I have ever owned but have been around them for years. I have owned Rover cars as well as numerous other British cars over the past 18 years -- I definitely recognize most of the misc. hardware and parts! In fact, there is a local huge mail order house, Victoria British, that has been a good source of inexpensive parts despite the fact they do not specifically carry a Rover line. I like to tell people that the Land Rover is the only British car built that was over- engineered, their longevity is a testament to the original design philosophy behind them. My next project is to lift off the rear section of the body from the frame. Does anyone who has done this have any helpful hints/suggestions? I have some electrolytic corrosion from the seat belt brackets and other pieces in that section and want to completely wire brush and paint the frame. I'm looking forward to hearing from other Rover owners! -- *********** hesterph@lenexa.lenexa.ingr.com ************* * * * Paul H. Hester | "I know that you believe you * * Project Manager | understand what you think was * * (913) 599-1250 | said, but I am not sure you * * FAX 913-599-0750 | realize that what you heard * * Mailstop: KSLEN | is not what was meant." * * * *********** hesterph@lenexa.lenexa.ingr.com *************
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 10 20:29:15 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dd@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Cc: Anybody@sandelman.ocunix.on.ca Subject: 1976 gmc wheel cyl for Land Rovers From: dd@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Dale Desprey) Reply-To: dd@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Dale Desprey) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1993 19:03:00 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada I have heard a rumour that 1976 gmc half ton wheel cylinders an identical to Land Rover, except steel. Is this true??/q -- Dale Desprey, dd@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Aug 12 10:49:55 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: 1976 gmc wheel cyl for Land Rovers To: dd@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Thu, 12 Aug 93 16:38:43 BST Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com In-Reply-To: <PV038B1w165w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca>; from "Dale Desprey" at Aug 10, 93 7:03 pm I would be interested to know why you think a steel brake cyl is better than an alloy one.All the cars I have had over the years have had alloy brake cyls,and until recently I thought that there was no alternative.Just goes to show that one is never too old... Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Aug 12 14:00:28 1993
Return-Path: <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: 1976 gmc wheel cyl for Land Rovers
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Thu, 12 Aug 93 16:38:43 PDT."
<9308121538.AA13340@hpc.lut.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 93 11:51:41 PDT
From: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
I don't know what it was off, but when I first got my Rover, one
of the brake cylinders was steel and the others were Rover (alloy).
Unfortunately, I can't remember if I have that cylinder here in
California or in New Jersey.
Ben
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Aug 15 17:23:31 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Land Rover available... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1993 16:28:01 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From the FidoNet British cars echo... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- (149) Wed 4 Aug 93 7:44 Rcvd: Sat 7 Aug 0:47 By: Keith Wood To: Dixon Kenner Re: LR clubs --------------------- 1951 Series I Land Rover, LHD, 80". The good news: This car was ignored for several years by the former owner (who parked it when he bought a new Jeep, the cretin), and I intended to restore. Body good, frame has no rust or very little (Arizona car); engine appears to be in good condition, but hasn't been started since I got it a year ago. Has both doors and tailgate. Has spare tire. Has one wiper motor (and no indication that it ever had two). The bad news: Left rear drive axle has been broken at small end, the broken part had been removed and lost before I got the car. Windshield glass cracked. Instruments need rebuild. Carb needs rebuild. Steering wheel needs replacement. Needs taillight lens. This sounds worse than it is. One parts house had a NOS axle for about $140 when I called in April. I am interested in selling only because I have too many vehicle projects and the LR is a lower priority than my M35A2 truck. Asking price: US $1100.00; may swap for M35A2 Deuce-and-a-half parts. Contact: Keith Wood (Fido 1:304/8, Netmail direct only) PO Bx 2313 Cottonwood AZ 86326 BRASS CANNON BBS 602-639-1039 -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 17 08:26:20 1993 Return-Path: <ACUS05@WACCVM.corp.mot.com> Date: 17 Aug 1993 06:13:00 -0700 From: Paul Anderson <ACUS05@waccvm.corp.mot.com> To: Land Rover Mailing List <lro@transfer.stratus.com> Cc: <MKEENAN@uniwa.uwa.edu.au> Subject: Diff problems!! X-Post: RSFLAGS Could any of you be able to give any advise to Mark in the attached note. Thanks, Paul ___Forwarded Letter Follows_______________________________ Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1993 08:26:41 +0800 From: Mark J Keenan <mkeenan@uniwa.uwa.edu.au> Message-Id: <199308170026.IAA07139@uniwa.uwa.edu.au> To: offroad@ai.gtri.gatech.edu Subject: Diff problems!! G'day all!! My beast: 1974 S3 LWB Landrover fitted with a Holden 186 (thats a six) My problem: A CLUNK when I change gears!! My thoughts: I have checked the uni-joints and they seem OK and the clunk is definitely towards the rear of the vehicle and usually when changing up gears. I can drive in such a way (slow changes, no clutch dropping) to minimise the clunk however as I am trying to sell it to people who can't drive like this (and some who have never even hopped in a decent size 4x4 before :) *forced grin/ouch*) it is becoming a problem. I need to know what it might be, how much to fix and what is involved if I tackle it myself. I am selling the old girl (the Landy NOT my wife) for AUS$4400 so I need to keep the repair price down!! The reason I suspect the diff (apart from the above) is that I have heard several stories from fellow LR enthusiasts about Landys fitted with foreign engines like the 186 - first they screw the g/box (mine's just been replaced) and then they hit the diff!! Any comments would be greatly appreciated! Cheers Mark Keenan ___End of Forwarded Letter________________________________
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 17 11:11:07 1993
Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: Infra-Red lights
To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list)
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 93 17:01:58 BST
Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1]
Hi Folks,
I've been delving into the innards of my ex-Military LR's electrics.
The PO has made some changes, none detrimental tho'.
I'd like to know what the (disconnected) Infra Red light switch used to do - I
have a diagram which I think applies to my vehicle but all symbols are not
clear. Also of course there is the six-way light switch - I think I follow
what this does, although some parts are not used on mine now. The IR light
switch is connected to this. Anyone know if the IR switch turned off the
normal lights and turned on some IR lights? If so where are (were) these
lights on my vehicle and wiring diagram?
Cheers,
Steve. '74 ('79) S111 Airportable with V8 transplant.
PS Ever change those engine mounts Mike? (I still swear mine were easy, where
easy means as easy as taking a Beetle engine out - gearbox mounts are even
easier! BTW I think nothing of levering the engine over to get more room,
maybe this is where we differ? I agree the bulkhead is the limiting factor in
jacking)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Aug 18 11:05:35 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Infra-Red lights To: sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 93 16:55:26 BST Cc: Cc@lut.ac.uk, lro@transfer.stratus.com In-Reply-To: <9308171601.AA15626@smethley.hpl.hp.com>; from "Steve Methley" at Aug 17, 93 5:01 pm Steve, Could be Infra Red *instrument* lights? I once had an MG Magnette ZA type,with what they called "black light"speedo illumination. This resulted in the speedo numbers glowing yuckit green (special paint I think),highly visible but not reflective.I tthink *they* were actually UV but the principle would be the same.I cant see any use for IR external lights,particularly since drab NATO green paint contains ingredients to cut down the IR signature of the vehicle. I know a couple of ex-sergeants,will ask them if they know. Cheers Mike
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Aug 18 11:17:01 1993
Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Infra-Red lights
To: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 93 17:06:48 BST
Cc: sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com, Cc@lut.ac.uk, lro@transfer.stratus.com
In-Reply-To: <9308181555.AA17364@hpc.lut.ac.uk>; from "Mike Rooth" at Aug 18, 93 4:55 pm
Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1]
Hi Mike,
> Could be Infra Red *instrument* lights? ......
mmm, never thought of that; do let us know..
Best Regards,
Steve.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Aug 18 16:34:17 1993 Return-Path: <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> Date: Wed, 18 Aug 93 17:24:09 EDT From: Inside every Volvo is an Idiot trying to get out <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: axle work I was working on the LR this weekend replacing one of the swivel pin balls which was just a bit to pitted and was constantly dripping oil. When it came time to mount the new ball, I had to get some new hardware so I went over to the local megastore (it was a Sunday) looking for bolts. They had some SAE 5 junk which I thought was probably marginal. I dug around a bit and came up with some SAE 8 grade manifold studs. I used these with some additional nuts to mount the new ball. So, what's the net concensus? Is this a reasonable thing to do, would the 5 grade's have been good enough, or what? I was just on the phone to RN getting some new junk so I'm going to pick up some proper hardware but just for future reference I'd like to know. FYI: gaiters seem to be working nicely, too. Good investment. Is there a good source for wrenches and such for British standard bolt heads. I'm sick of using adjustables and the-greatest-thing-since- slided-bread vice grips to work on these puppies. RN has a few things but there must be a general source for the LBC crowd. For NE readers: any recommendations for engine shops in the Boston area? I'm going to be doing a partial top end rebuild to put in some stellite valves and I'm looking for a good shop to do the grinding and lapping. Monty
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Aug 18 17:03:19 1993 Return-Path: <u10122@sdsc.edu> Date: Wed, 18 Aug 93 21:54:20 GMT From: u10122@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: NE shops Monty- I don't know about the Boston area machine shops...but down south of you just westward of Mystic, CT (about 20 mins or so west) there is a shop that is into rover restos that appear (I was there on a sunday when they were closed) to do respectable work. Anyone ever had experience with them?? They did seem a bit pricey (for their 109's and 88's they were asking top dollar). Surely you ought to be able to find someone closer, however.....esp if all you need is the machine work (which I am not so certain those guys actually do for themselves......they do paint well, though). rd/nige (who busted his rear mounting bracket for his generator last weekend........nearly lost the whole thing into the pristine radiator but was fortunate to be poking about under the hood and found it... whew).
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Aug 18 16:56:41 1993
Return-Path: <cak@parc.xerox.com>
To: brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: axle work
In-Reply-To: brandenberg's message of Wed, 18 Aug 93 14:24:09 -0800.
<9308182113.AA08127@easynet.crl.dec.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1993 14:46:07 PDT
Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com>
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
Grade 5 bolts are the ones commonly used for automotive work. Some
applications require grade 8 or equivalent - like cylinder head studs.
It mostly depends on the amount of torque required.
I have the following places listed as sources for Whitworth tools:
Name: British Tool Company
Address: 891 Houseman NE
Grand Rapids MI 49503
Phone: (616) 458-9768
Name: Rex Lewis
Company: Lewis Restorations
Address: P.O. Box 127
Lompoc, CA 93438
Name: O'Connor Classic
Address: 2569 Scott Blvd.
Santa Clara, CA 95050
Phone: (408) 727-0430
Name: Scottish Imports Ltd
Address: P.O. Box 549
150 Airport Drive, Unit 6
Westminster, Maryland 21157
Phone: (800)-762-5134
I've only dealt with British Tool Company; he carries Whitworth hand
tools as well as tap and die sets, and has some access to Churchill
tools (or the patterns for them). He is remanufacturing tools that
aren't available; much of this is aimed at the show-car set that wants
original toolkits for exhibition, but he isn't completely taken up by
that attitude (i.e., his prices aren't outrageous).
O'Connor Classic has a good reputation locally.
Moss Motors also occasionally advertises Whitworth wrenches and sockets; I have
one of their Whitworth wrench sets (apparently surplus from circa 1945) and it
has served me well.
Name: Moss Motors
Address: PO Box MG
7200 Hollister Avenus
Goleta, CA 93116
Phone: (800) 322-6985 ca only
(800) 235-6954 Outside CA
(805) 968-1041
(805) 968-6910 fax
Let us know what you find out!
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Aug 18 17:52:42 1993
Return-Path: <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: re: axle work
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Wed, 18 Aug 93 15:29:24 PDT."
<9308182229.AA24333@through.ugcs.caltech.edu>
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 93 15:45:16 PDT
From: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
> I have the following places listed as sources for Whitworth tools:
My father has a set of Whitworth/British Standard 3/8" sockets
that were made by Snap-On. They're about 20 to 25 years old though. With
Snap-On's prices I would think that they would still make Witworth tools.
Ben Smith
ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Aug 19 01:20:06 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Infra-Red lights
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1993 19:09:59 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> writes:
> I'd like to know what the (disconnected) Infra Red light switch used to do -
> have a diagram which I think applies to my vehicle but all symbols are not
> clear.
Do you have the military map lamp still installed? It was a red
light in a spring loaded coil that was fitted to the military LR.
Just an idea... :-)
BTW, Blew a brake line... :-( Should have changed them all I
guess.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Aug 19 01:55:51 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Land Rover ploughs on.
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1993 22:54:19 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Manchester Guardian Weekly,
week ending August 8, 1993,
Vol 149, No. 6
The venerable Land-Rover reached a milestone last week when the 1.5
millionth rolled off a Solihull production line, 45 years after the
vehicle was introduced.
The Land-Rover made its debut at the 1948 Amsterdam motor show and
has since sold in nearly every country of the world as a workhorse
for farmers, foresters, police and armed forces.
The Land-Rover, renamed the Defender in 1990, is now available in
three model types, hard or soft top, petrol or diesel engined, with
a choice of three lengths of wheelbase.
Sales of Defender, Discovery and Range Rover vehicles increased by
26 percent in the first six months of the year and Rover is set to
recruit a further 300 staff.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Aug 19 10:07:54 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Infra-Red lights To: sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 93 15:56:08 BST Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com In-Reply-To: <9308171601.AA15626@smethley.hpl.hp.com>; from "Steve Methley" at Aug 17, 93 5:01 pm What Ho Steve, One ex-sergeant (Signals) said it would be more likely to be an IR interior light for map reading and radio operating.The idea being that when the crew dismounted their night vision would be intact.He has an army mate who worked a lot with rovers whom he said he would ask when he next saw him.His knowledge is necessarily limited,being signals,because as I understand it FFR land Rovers are 24V because of the radios, whereas I assume yours is,and always has been,12V,GS.It might help if you could find out its military history.I know its possible,but forget where the gen is kept.Bovington? I havent seen the other bloke yet. Cheers Mike
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Aug 19 10:16:49 1993
Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Infra-Red lights
To: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 19 Aug 93 16:06:07 BST
Cc: sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com
In-Reply-To: <9308191456.AA21360@hpc.lut.ac.uk>; from "Mike Rooth" at Aug 19, 93 3:56 pm
Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1]
Hi Mike,
very interesting. I see this as a useful thing to do. It doesn't
however agree with my badly photocopied circuit diagram. It looks as though
the IR switch might cut out everything bar dipped beam and igniton/heater.
My problem in reading the circuit diagram is that relay terminals are all the
same - no function is shown for the pins - same for switches!!!!
Maybe the idea is to reduce IR signature but still see where you are going at
night, by a single switch?? I'm not convinced.
Cheers,
Steve.
PS I'm going to get S/H 5 and 7 leaf springs for my LR this w/e, will tell you
if ride is better.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Aug 23 09:27:49 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: IR Light Switch To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 93 12:13:26 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] A while ago I asked what the IR Light switch did on Military landrovers. The answer, for anyone still interested is simple: It does as I half suspected - cut power to everyting but heater, ignition and dipped beam. What I didn't know was that the military used to fit IR filters to the headlights in this condition, supposedly for night manoeuvres. Apparently the story goes that this was of limited use as anyone with IR glasses could see the LR a mile off! I have the wiring all figured out now for the Lightweight. Cheers, Steve.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 24 02:05:58 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: another parts supplier
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1993 00:31:47 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Another parts supplier in the USA...
Bit of Britain
PO Box 1370
Dedham MA, 02027
(6??) 361-6396
Seems to have quite a bit of Land Rover stuff, including tons of
older Triumph & MG parts. Also buys and sells Land Rovers owning a
few himself (Mike Buonanduci, the owner). I have dealt with him
and have had good service. Prices are far better than Rovers
North.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 24 09:49:56 1993 Return-Path: <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> Date: Tue, 24 Aug 93 10:35:56 EDT From: Good... Bad... I'm the guy with the gun <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: another parts supplier Dixon says: > Bit of Britain > PO Box 1370 > Dedham MA, 02027 > (6??) 361-6396 This smells suspiciously of the DAP outfit in the area that Jory had so many problem with and that others have warned of. As far as I know, there was only one LR-serving-type operation in that area. Jory? Teri? m
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Aug 25 00:39:11 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: another parts supplier
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1993 22:21:15 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> This smells suspiciously of the DAP outfit in the area that Jory had
> so many problem with and that others have warned of. As far as I
> know, there was only one LR-serving-type operation in that area.
Mike B. is in business on his own. He has a couple of barns full
of old Triumph, MG etc. parts that he has acquired over the years.
For the most part he doesn't advertise. I first met him two years
ago at the Carlisle Import show, and a few times since. If you
require confirmation, send an e-mail message to David Huddleson
(dhuddles@gandalf.ca). He doesn't have an exhaustive list of
parts, for example he doesn't have a complete set of 109 wheel
cylinders, which was why I phoned him in the first place. He does
have a lot of 88 parts.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 27 01:42:42 1993 Return-Path: <dluckma3@mach1.wlu.ca> From: dluckma3@mach1.wlu.ca (david luckman 9209 U) Subject: Mailing List To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 2:29:57 EDT I do not personally own a rover but I'm writing on behalf of a friend who does and wants to get on your list. What is the appropriate way to get this done? Dave
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 27 11:36:57 1993
Return-Path: <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: diffs
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Fri, 27 Aug 93 15:02:37 PST."
<9308271502.AA95498@y1.sdsc.edu>
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 09:29:03 PDT
From: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
In message <9308271502.AA95498@y1.sdsc.edu> you write:
> while using nigel as my backup transpo (the rotting 318 has fuel
> injection problems) i managed to snap a rear half axle (and got home
> on front wheel drive). removed the axles and the diff last night, and
> the broken piece is lodged into my spider gear. it is such a tight fit
> that i'll have to disassemble the diff and press it out. i figure that
Does the axle break anywhere else? Mine broke in the same spot
and was just as tight. (it was a nice fatigue frature by the way) I'd
hate to imaging trying to get the broken piece out while in the field.
> the pinion bearings)??? incidentally, if this helps in provinding another
> clue-with the half shaft busted the groaning noise was continuous at
> highway speeds, no matter what the load condition.
This sounds like you drove home by just engaging 4WD. That's bad. When
half shafts break, they tend to sends drop lots of metal bits into the bottom of
the differential. If
you don't remove as much of the broken half shaft as possible, the two ends
will grind against one another and prodice lots of metal shavings. If the
differential is still in use, these bits can do ai lot of damage.
In the future, if you can't replace the half shaft and gear oil when it breaks,
break out your handy tool kit. Remove both half shafts and the propeller shaft.
This makes sure that you are not spinning the differential. Then put the
Rover in 4WD (now front wheel drive) and carefully drive home.
Ben Smith
ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
1972 SIII 88
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 27 12:00:36 1993 Return-Path: <u10122@sdsc.edu> Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 15:02:37 GMT From: u10122@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: diffs folks- while using nigel as my backup transpo (the rotting 318 has fuel injection problems) i managed to snap a rear half axle (and got home on front wheel drive). removed the axles and the diff last night, and the broken piece is lodged into my spider gear. it is such a tight fit that i'll have to disassemble the diff and press it out. i figure that while i am in there i may as well fix my diff noise problem, but i am unsure which bearings i should replace/adjust (w/shims). this rig has a low grinding noise (it is a bearing noise i think-there is no sign of damage to any of the spider gears, crown wheel, or pinion gear, and everything appears to be relatively "tight"-ie there is not too much or any, for that matter, slap in the gears) that is evident ONLY as you go from "on load" to "off load" conditions......ie, if driving along at highway speed underload the diff sounds just fine. as you let off the gas and begin to coast the diff groans (not really a grind as stated above) until the "off load" condition is fully met. so-the question-should i replace the tapered roller bearings (on the carrier housing), the inner and outer pinion bearings, or can i get away with shim adjustments (for the pinion bearings)??? incidentally, if this helps in provinding another clue-with the half shaft busted the groaning noise was continuous at highway speeds, no matter what the load condition. thanks in advance for your advice, rd/nige/rd400f (last of the air cooled two stroke twins).
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 27 13:15:35 1993 Return-Path: <bellas@gamma.tti.com> Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 11:05:02 PDT From: bellas@gamma.tti.com (Bellas) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: diffs >> i managed to snap a rear half axle (and got home >> on front wheel drive). removed the axles and the diff last night, and >> the broken piece is lodged into my spider gear. it is such a tight fit >> that i'll have to disassemble the diff and press it out. i figure that > Does the axle break anywhere else? Yes, mine busted close to the middle (right axle). When I bought the new pair I did a trick that we used to do in drag racers, that was to "ice" the axles. You pack them in dry ice, wrap in heavy plankets and let them set for several days. The ice runs out over the first day then they slowly return to normal temprature. I forget the theory behind this but I have not broken and axle since (and this includes snow plowing!). Now for another subject. After being branded as a heretic for contemplating and engine swap I am considering just doing a rebuild on the 2.6 petrol 6. I realized that the reason I disliked the 6 is that it was unreliable when asked to do long stretchs of high speed highway. My new intention is to use it around town and tow it behind the camper for outings so this is not a problem. What kind of money am I looking at to do a complete overhaul (buy the bits and send out for the heavy machine work)? Thanks. -Pete- * Pete Bellas "Cogito ergo spud" * * Citicorp/TTI I think therefore I yam. * * Santa Monica, CA * * bellas@gamma.tti.com *
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 27 13:36:21 1993 Return-Path: <bellas@gamma.tti.com> Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 11:23:21 PDT From: bellas@gamma.tti.com (Bellas) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Apology (was :Re: diffs) I can't believe the number of typos I just sent out, sorry. -Pete-
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 27 15:01:41 1993
Return-Path: <u10122@sdsc.edu>
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 19:49:06 GMT
From: u10122@sdsc.edu (dushin russell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: diffs
I had written:
> the pinion bearings)??? incidentally, if this helps in provinding another
> clue-with the half shaft busted the groaning noise was continuous at
> highway speeds, no matter what the load condition.
and Ben responded:
This sounds like you drove home by just engaging 4WD. That's bad. When
half shafts break, they tend to sends drop lots of metal bits into the bottom of
the differential. If
you don't remove as much of the broken half shaft as possible, the two ends
will grind against one another and prodice lots of metal shavings. If the
differential is still in use, these bits can do ai lot of damage.
In the future, if you can't replace the half shaft and gear oil when it breaks,
break out your handy tool kit. Remove both half shafts and the propeller shaft.
This makes sure that you are not spinning the differential. Then put the
Rover in 4WD (now front wheel drive) and carefully drive home.
But, Ben-I had no choice. And yes, I was fully aware of the potential to do
serious damage. I was without adequate tools to do the job, was on a busy road
in a not-so-nice neighborhood, and couldn't leave the car there. I was
unable to remove the propellar shaft with what I had (not much) and was not
about to remove the half shafts WITHOUT removing the propellar shaft as
well. There is no question-I lucked out. Fortunately for me, the shaft broke
near the end WITHIN the carrier housing, and the bits were completely contained
therein. there was NO evidence that ANY shavings made it into the gears,
bearings, or even into the oil itself. the break was entirely contained.
There is absolutely no way I could have predicted that (outside of removing
the shafts) but I got lucky. I drove home with one ear on the the diff,
two eyes on the road, and all fingers crossed......drove slowly, I might add.
Had I removed the half-shafts (which I could have done) but NOT removed the
propeller shaft I suspect I WOULD have done serious damage. I decided to drive,
hope for the best, and couldn't stop thinking about the condition of my spare
diff all the way home.
But, my questions about the groan (which was there long before the shaft
broke) remains outstanding.......which bearings should I consider replacing,
or shimming up???? Jay, at RN, claims to have the same noise in his
rover (spoke with him after writing this morning) and he had been told
by someone else that the pinion bearings (and not the tapered roller bearings
on the carrier housing) were suspect.
rd/nige
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 27 15:12:27 1993 Return-Path: <u10122@sdsc.edu> Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 19:59:12 GMT From: u10122@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: ice Pete wrote: >When I bought the new pair I did a trick that we used to do in drag racers, that was to "ice" the axles. Over the past year or so several people have busted axles, and this icing trick has often been suggested....along with purchasing axles in pairs. I wish someone could supply some good sound reasoning for why this works.... it seems contrary to what one might assume-I would think that freezing an axle down would induce some degree of crystallization-and I am not convinced that this is a good thing. It also seems contrary to the concept of annealing-in which metal (or glass) is heated for extended periods and then allowed to cool slowly. I am not disputing this icing trick-I just would like to understand why it works. I am considering doing it....but have not convinced myself to buy the extra axle (just the busted one is on order), am short on time (parts should be here tomorrow, and I am currently dependant on this rover), and haven't been putting nigel through all sorts of torment (the farm roach does all the real work). to freeze, or not to freeze? that is another question. rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Aug 27 16:55:06 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 14:45:59 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, u10122@sdsc.edu Subject: Re: diffs > > But, my questions about the groan (which was there long before the shaft > broke) remains outstanding.......which bearings should I consider replacing, > or shimming up???? > > rd/nige > I just did my rear diff because all four bolts that hold my Quafe limited- slip together, broke the heads off. I discovered this when I was changing the 90w and noticed a "lump" go by when I pulled the plug. All four bearings and races cost me less than $80 US, so why waste time asking which ones, do 'em all. No point in doing all that work, then having to do it again, soon. Don't get the bearings at any of the "Rover suppliers"... go to a good bearing distributor with your old parts and they will match them up a sell them to you for the same price that RN or AB can get them for. If your not in a hurry I can post the Timken numbers here, as they are on the invoice from the distributor. The fun part about my problem was, well, have you ever tried to find a 1/2-16 grade 8, 4.5" long in the US? I had to make the damn things. Regards, Bill G.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 31 10:28:18 1993 Return-Path: <paddler@julian.uwo.ca> Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1993 11:14:27 -0400 (EDT) From: "j.p. kilbreath" <paddler@julian.uwo.ca> Subject: Subscription To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I waas wondering if you could forward to me information regarding the Land Rover Newsletter that I believe you produce... If there is no cost to me then please consider placing my name on the mailing list immediately. You can reach me at paddler@julian.uwo.ca. Thank you.. Jeff Kilbreath
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 31 15:31:48 1993
Return-Path: <paddler@julian.uwo.ca>
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1993 16:18:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: "j.p. kilbreath" <paddler@julian.uwo.ca>
Subject: Subscription
To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
I was wondering if you could forward to me information regarding
the Land Rover Newsletter that I believe you produce... If there is no
cost to me then please consider placing my name on the mailing list
immediately. You can reach me at paddler@julian.uwo.ca.
Thank you..
Jeff Kilbreath
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 31 16:29:05 1993 Return-Path: <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> Date: Tue, 31 Aug 93 14:41:10 EDT From: I feel a Jackson Pollock coming on <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Cc: brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: carbs and timing and distribs, oh my! [Preliminary note: saw a nice, blue 197[23] SIII 88 on Mass Ave. in Cambridge about a block from my apartment advertised for sale. Good exterior, decent interior from what I could see (it was night). Number is 617.868.8610 for anyone interested. I would have been if I hadn't one already...] Anyway, decided to get up off of the ground and do some engine work this weekend only to learn that I am truly a child of the fuel injection and ECU age. :-( I am so ashamed.... First the distributor... Contrary to the Haynes and original owner's manual, my distributor is without the octane adjuster. The RN parts catalog leads me to believe that the one I have is a newer lucas type but I wonder why they dropped the adjuster. It seems a good idea but was it unreliable or given to slippage? Also, the new points kits seem to be inferior to the old ones: they don't have the cam wiper or the donut-type contacts. In adjusting the timing I followed the static timing method of the books. The timing pointer has only two pointers, not three, a large one and a smaller to it's right. I assumed that these are TDC and 3ATDC and decided to set for ATDC to be on the safe side. I also hand- rotated the cam full clockwise to pull in the mechanical advance and I checked the vacuum advance by sucking on the vacuum line (which made some sounds inside the distrib). I suspect that setting the timing in this manner is inferior to the dynamic, especially with regard to the idle-speed equilibrium point of the mech. advance. Comments? On to the carb... I have the basic Weber 34ICH tipo, er, type. But I'm uncertain as to which adjusting screws do what. At the base of the carb near the adapter on the engine side is what I thought should be the idle adjust. Above it is another with a smaller set screw situated near the joint between the two carb halves. I thought this was the mixture adjust. However, neither seems to behave quite as I expected. I also replaced a few carb parts while I was in there: needle valve, accelerator pump diaphram (or whatever it's called in Weber-land), a few O-rings. So, overall, I think the combination of the static timing setting and my inability to correctly adjust a carb has left me with a poorer running engine. So, can the net come up with some help for a poor chiphead who can't get his rover running velvet smooth with all 77 horses pulling together? Greatly appreciated.... monty
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 31 18:31:55 1993 Return-Path: <u10122@sdsc.edu> Date: Tue, 31 Aug 93 23:23:01 GMT From: u10122@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Bill G. writes: No point in doing all that work, then having to do it again, soon. Don't get the bearings at any of the "Rover suppliers"... go to a good bearing distributor with your old parts and they will match them up a sell them to you for the same price that RN or AB can get them for. sound advice. However, I've come from the "ain't broke-don't fix it" and "they don't make 'em like they used to" schools of thought...........I realize this will send a shudder through your spines...but this was a race against time I had to deal with. My primary vehicle is in the shop, my nige was lame, and my two stroke twin is running like $%it. Besides, thee is a hurricane heading my way, and I badly need(ed) be on four firm feet for the rest of the week. hence, I have cleaned all the little bits of metal out (as many as I could find, at least....and it helped to look, bang and toss from all different angles to find 'em), replaced the broken half shaft (no iceing as yet........can this be done at anytime or is it best done on new shafts?), and bolted her back together. Sounds just like she used to-really not so bad at all. As for getting bearings at distributors vs. RN/AB.......I imagine bearings are made to spec w/respect to dimensions-but are all bearings made of the same materials? That is, is a bearing bought from a distributor as good (or better) than one obtained from the motherland?
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Aug 31 18:46:06 1993
Return-Path: <cak@parc.xerox.com>
To: u10122@sdsc.edu (dushin russell)
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com
In-Reply-To: u10122's message of Tue, 31 Aug 93 16:23:01 -0800.
<9308312323.AA81379@y1.sdsc.edu>
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1993 16:36:35 -0700
Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com>
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
That is, is a bearing bought from a distributor as good
(or better) than one obtained from the motherland?
Sure, since they're probably the same bearings. Rover sources those
parts - they don't make them in house. Chances are good that if you
look at your bearing it will say "Timken" on it; Timken is one of the
world's largest bearing mfgers, and your local bearing shop will get
exactly the same bit, possibly for less than RN/AB charges you.
Posted text Copyright 1990-2011 the original author or Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Page Created: 13 Jan 1997
All trademarks are undoubtedly owned by somebody else.